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Soon I will take on rebuilding the twin ultramatic due to the front seals regularly leaking. I have received the entire kit from Max Merrit, and it's on the shelf waiting for the right time (most likely while the car is being painted). Any info/tips/tricks on rebuiding this unit outside of the service manual? I know my grandfather was the guru when rebuilidng these units (and everything else Packard related) so I'm hoping some of that knowledge will be transferred thru me someway, somehow...... I will also troubleshoot and resolve the parking gear/pawl sticking issue while apart. I have a brand new valve body on the shelf as well that may find its way in there. Current status: in D> - when cold, it doens't like to shift out of first until completely warmed up. in

Posted on: 3/9 14:51

- Watch Ross's videos on the torque converter (Speedwell Garage on YT)

- Scribe the torque converter parts before disassembly. The manual tells you to when needed but it's easy to miss. Note: do not scribe the secondary turbine as it only goes back on one way (noted in Ross's video also).

- Read thru my thread of common mistakes LOL
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?start=0&topic_id=27459&order=DESC&status=&mode=0

- You will not be able to disassemble and reassemble the low range brake without getting creative. The high range clutch I could disassemble with the help of bar clamps, but could not reverse the method to reassemble it. I also had trouble with the tailshaft components.

Thank you for the information! It will all be useful..

Yesterday the car ventured many miles... The more it drives, the happier it seems to get which is amazing.

I took it to my dad's house and he was finally able to see it again in person, and drive it for the first time in over 40 years..... Such a cool experience!!!

Here's a short youtube link of the cars current status.

https://youtu.be/DhdhCTvfWpQ?si=yJqlpKnKcusz5W3D

BTW

https://youtu.be/R0_Maqzd3Eg?si=MZjGyK0xExdoHsro

Transmission is out and disassembled.

It looks very clean everywhere so far and very little sludge in the pan after all the driving.

New valve body installed, Working on the shift lever tap mod on the new shaft. I have the new pawl as well (so thankful we had these brand new parts on the shelf all this time).
Currently geeking out on how the parking lock assy works. It appears the lock, spring, and gear are in perfect shape, but the lock does not depress completely into the gear with the pawl. The old pawl did have a bearing defect so I'm hoping that was why it had been sticking in park.


I'll get to the the seals, clutches and torque conv this week.

Hoping to not hit many snags, but I will expect the unexpected.....

They had different styles of parking gear (not pawls), the later style had ground teeth. Use that one if you don't have it, though if you simply use your Ebrake and park downhill, you shouldn't have a problem even with the older gear.

Having an issue with this thrust bearing thing...

All the heat/pressing/etc isn't budging it..

Marks on it were there before I started mty process as if someone had tried unsuccessfully.

I might just smoothen it all out and use it as is since it's somewhat of a gear cover.

Let me know if anyone has dealt with this please!!!

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Another pic

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That bushing centers and supports the convertor relative to the rest of the transmission and is the flow path for fluid into the convertor.
As such it is pretty important. The nominal clearance between it and the convertor stub shaft should be .003". You will need to come up with some sort of arbor or maybe just a real big socket to push it out; it takes a lot of force and lets go with a loud grunt.

There are two issues with the sticking in Park problem. The root cause is that the little roller that pushes down the parking pawl travels too far and goes over center. That means that as you try and shift out of park the roller has to try and push the pawl yet deeper into the gear while the two are under load. That won't go.

There is a pin that holds the pawl spring AND serves as a stop for the roller. At this late date, it is often bent. The solution is make a new stop pin long enough to make sure that the roller can only push the pawl to its deepest travel and no further. That takes a bit of fiddling, but is not hard with the trans out.

The second issue has to do with the shift linkage geometry which in its natural state gives very unfavorable leverage in the Park position. There is a service counselor article about that which someone less easily frustrated by managing files can post here.