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Sweet!

That's the info I needed to stay motivated and get it outta there....

I will definitely ensure that pawl spring angle setup is correct when installing the new one.

The new manual lever shaft will also have the tapped modification so it can not back out.

I made sure the linkage geometry was properly engaging the selector range prior. I'll make sure it's the same when installing this fresh setup!

Updates to follow

I made a video helping show and describe these concepts:



Here are the relevant STB's:

https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/SC/SC-VOL30NO1.pdf

https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/SC/SB-340.pdf

https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/SC/SC-VOL29NO7.pdf

Thank you so much for that video. Very helpful!!

I got that bushing in today. Used a press at a friends tractor shop nearby..

I am all too familiar with pressing those detents in, prior to the manual lever shaft mod (using my pinky) and having my son do the same... We modified that when it was in the car, only removing pan. Not too bad...

He'll be master mechanic soon (he's 13).

The smaller copper bushings (oil pump) tolerances are still good. I haven't looked into replacing those. I'd most likely do more damage removing and installing those without proper tooling....

I will check the torque converter internals out and reassemble, then finalize everything on this within a couple days.

I hope to have it back in and tested shortly.... Hot here too.... 102 today in east bay.

Press out

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New one pressed in

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Done

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On the torque converter be very careful to scribe the two halves before disassembly if not already done. You must also scribe the direct drive clutch metal plate and piston. Nothing on the turbines needs scribed as the secondary turbine only reattaches in one orientation.

Though often the pistons are balanced, you won't know until you remove it. Scribing it also helps you place it back on NOT on the bosses, which will destroy it.

Do not remove the reactor shaft or sprags if that assembly is working properly. It should easily spin one way but not spin the other way.

Ross (speedwell garage) has a good series on converter disassembly on YT.

Mod to new lever shaft done/tested/installed with new pawl.

Now to install bell housing with new gasket and ensure it all functions properly.

Then, memorize the Speedwell garage TC video and finish that setup.

Not long now. Here's the pics of the lever shaft mod and pawl engaged.

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Drill a hole straight thru the shifter arm and stick in a roll pin. I suggest doing the same size as that roll pin nearby to it already there from the factory, pretty sure ⅛" dia.

Then it will never get loose on you.

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Oh, and you need the reverse stop on your shifter lever. Without it the spool valve will slide out of the valve body too far and the detents will prevent it from sliding back in. Then you are really stuck in the middle of the parking lot.