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The fittings required should be listed on the website. First check if it's the same as you already have. Pretty sure you're gonna have NPT fittings.

Probably you will need to get some tubing. You can get a double flare kit for cheap on FB Marketplace or HF. And make your own lines.

Before or after the filter won't matter much, but I would do before. Otherwise the oil will not drain down on its own. Be sure to read the label carefully to see which orientation actually gives you the 10 PSI.

Adding the 10 psi check valve is a creative way to increase oil pressure at an idle, and would certainly help. It sounds like your engine is just a bit tired, which is typical of many of our cars. I get a bit of a flicker from my oil light every now and then when the engine is hot and at an idle, but have not been too concerned about it. I may be wrong, but it seems to me that our engines don't need much oil pressure at idle as they are just coasting along, not under any load.

When I first got my car I popped this gauge on so I could see what the oil pressure was doing and this is all I have for a gauge. I give it a check every now and then to see what's going on just for peace of mind, otherwise I rely on the oil light.




I have a 327 and it used to have a tapping sound which turned out to be a very worn valve guide.

Joe: Do you have a ticking or tapping sound, or just concerned your oil pressure is a bit low?

I doubt if the lockwashers under the spring are stock. It is likely that flat washers were originally used to set the pressure at which the relief valve would open. I'd replace the lockwashers with flat washers of the same thickness or just a little thicker. The washers should not affect idle oil pressure, unless the piston/valve is not seating fully. 10W40 conventional oil is a good choice. 20/50 might give better results in an engine with some wear. For summer driving, I'd add a pint of STP and see if that boosts the oil pressure at hot idle a little. 2 pints will do no harm in warm weather in 10/40 oil. Don't overfill the crank case. The oil pump cover does not look excessively worn to me. The oil pressure relief is primarily intended to prevent excessive oil pressure on a cold start. It will not affect oil pressure at hot idle unless is is sticking or leaking. On the other hand, limiting flow to the bypass oil filter as discussed above could raise oil pressure at hot idle. Also, be sure your idle speed is at or slightly above spec.

Just an update here. Trying to get the pump to prime was an agony inducing thing. I did the gear oil prime recommended in other threads on the topic, took a couple tries. One of the lifters was pretty seriously against returning to service, but it came around.

So here are the gauges after about twenty minutes of driving, sitting in high at a stop sign. Still have yet to add the check valve, so I imagine that will help. It's basically unchanged. Ran great nonetheless. Back at it tomorrow.

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That doesn't look too bad to me.

There is nothing that you need to do. What is your pressure at speed?

Adding a pint of STP will support oil pressure and help keep the oil pump and lifters primed. If your engine has a floating oil screen, be sure that the pivot joint is not allowing air to be drawn in along with the oil.

Dashboard gauges, as a rule, are not very accurate.

Be sure idle speed is not below spec, and be sure operating temperature is within the normal range.

The exterior of the engine and transmission need to be kept reasonably clean, which will help cooling. Anything that restricts air flow in the under-hood area can contribute to higher oil temperatures. Added accessories, added dual exhaust, and debris build up around the oil pan and front cross member can all cause oil to run hotter. The radiator needs to be clean inside and out. The correct fan and proper fan belt tightening are essential. Slipping fan belts do not always squeal.
Radiator cores can accumulate a lot of small insects, grass seeds, and so forth in the core air passages.

The service manual states that the "indicator will sometimes light up or will flicker when the engine is idling even though the idle oil pressure is adequate; however, the light should go out when the engine is speeded up."

Doesn't the oil pressure light come on around 5 psi? Seems to me that "low" oil pressure at an idle is not an issue. If you have good oil pressure when cruising down the road, when your engine is under load, then you're good to go. Service manual states 40 lbs, so if you're up around that pressure when driving, I would say you're okay.

Hey gang, just wanted to button this one up and say thank you. Busy couple weeks at work and home and haven't been able to come back to it until tonight. In short, it just ran great. 40 lbs, right on the nose cruising, and 10-15 at hot idle, and silent (I couldn't actually hear it running). I have the check valve, but haven't installed it - seems like we're in a good place for now. Good getting that computer paper gasket in there, and getting all the sludge out of the pressure relief valve. So pleased. Thank you, all, for your help.

Now to start saving up to get the Ultra rebuilt...

Good job! Little by little your car will get better and better! Ask the man who owns one! 😉