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No tube on bottom-just an opening. As O_D mentioned, the tube from carb connects at the top and goes to carb choke housing. Vacuum pulls air thru the tube in manifold. Hot exhaust around tube heats air passing thru tube before going to choke thermostat. If exhaust is coming out of bottom, tube has rusted away and needs to be replaced. Not sure how tightly it is retained in manifold but must be fairly easily replaceable--probably a press fit. If you look at Kev's engine, you see a different arrangement for 53-4. Same principal, but his connects to a box on the side instead of the tube.

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My manifold does not have that hole. Only attached tube at the top-rear as seen in my second photo.

So I almost got it. The tube is internal to the exhaust manifold? How does it connect to the tube on the top that goes directly to the carb?

Just a loose fit, the OD of the steel line from the choke is just a bit smaller than the ID of the stove pipe in the manifold. Inserts maybe 1/4 inch, not critical.

The hood was delivered on Thursday, traveled 1020 miles. It's in relatively good shape, the metal is straight, which is better than my hood, which I folded back on the windshield 5 years ago.

What's unusual is the pelican is a 1952 bird with straight horizontal wings, but he hood is 1951 with the PACKARD lettering across the front.

I'm wondering if late in the 1951 year they switched the pelican...I have no information on the donor car.

There are some of the rubber grommets / bumpers on the front of the hood, but the two on the side of the hood are missing.

I'm wondering the best way to strip the paint/rust - I have a angle grinder with a wire cup brush on it that would easily get through everything, but would it be TOO aggressive, or leave swirl marks that would show through the paint. I don't have the money for a media blaster or to hire it done, but I could wait a year or two if that is absolutely the only way...

I will also need to remove the PACKARD letters, and would like hints on how to successfully remove them so others can use the letters.

The heat shield from Dan Yocum showed up also; here's the thread: Wanted - fuel pump heat shield 1952 300

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The trim like the letters and other small pot metal pieces was usually cast with small studs. They either pressed into retained type speed clips like in pict 3 or the flat type like 4.

Those look like the type in pict 3. Clean them up and if they are, I've had luck by taking a small awl, icepick, screwdriver whatever and bending the tangs to relieve the pressure that bite into the stud. Don't just try pulling them out because usually the stud breaks off. After the letters are out, the retaining clips can be taken out of the hole.

As to cleaning the paint, others will have some better ideas than I do and also about the ornament. That just might have been changed because it was available or maybe the owner liked the folded wings better & had it changed. Steele has the bumpers.

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I stripped my hood on the top side with a 40 grit sticky back sand paper on a DA. It left a nice spiral/swirl etching on metal that made a great base for the primer. Two wet coats of primer, and not a sanding mark is visible.

The trick here is the spiral pattern of the DA which is gentle enough not to gouge the metal, but the 40 grit is aggressive enough to cut through the paint and rust.

You can do the same of the bottom side for the flat areas, and then use a wire cup for the bracing and other difficult areas.

Here is what the sanding pattern looked like before the primer.

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DA = Dual Action Sander, powered by air usually?

I found a bunch on ebay, used, is there any particular feature I am looking for?

Yes they are usually powered by air. Just make sure you pick one that has a CFM rating that is in range for your compressor.

I am sure that someone makes a electric version also.

Another good day - slept in late and worked on the Packard.

Noticed a leak in the transcooler, bottom fitting. What's the verdict, do I braze it? Solder it? Look at the picture below...

Also, I'm preparing to take the intake and exhaust manifolds off. I even got the hidden nut off with a flexible fitting on my 3/8 drive ratchet.

The problem, of course, is where the exhaust manifold meets the exhaust pipe. Those bolts look VERY stubborn. I'm soaking them in PB Blaster overnight.

I really think they are going to snap; that means I'll probably have to extract the bolts, unless enough is left to put a wrench on it.

I am soliciting ideas on this before I go and break these bolts. Maybe put a vice grip on the bolt body while I also twist the ratchet?

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