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There is a fairly good description in section 10 -- Fenders and Sheet Metal of the Service Manual. Basically in addition to the radiator top splasher there are screws on each side from the inside of fender under the headlights and one on the outside under the side chrome pieces. A pair of brackets or support bars between the radiator cradle and grill is also used toward the bottom of grille.

On that outside screw under the fender side trim, depending on how the fenders are set to do the hood gap there may be a space between the tab on the grill and the fender sheetmetal... Do not try and snug that screw down to bend the tab if there is much space. Place a washer or shim or something to fill the space before tightening the screw or you stand a good chance of breaking the grille tab off. The side chrome end slides in under the grille corner so you may need to sort of finagle the grill side to side and get a test fit for the side chrome to figure any shims out before tightening the attaching bolts.

Thank you.
I looked in the Body chapter, gave up, and posted here.

Some time ago I replaced the fresh air fan (under the right side horn) with a modern motor. I am just now getting around to wiring it up. The fan switch in the photo may be broken. It does not stop at Off, High, or Low. It just spins and moves in and out with no resistance, Is that normal or do I need to replace it?

I have the rear bumper ready to bolt on but one of the tailpipes is not like the other. It is angled a few degrees upward so I have to bend that pipe first.

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The switch is broken and needs replacing. Shaft should not slide in or out and there are 3 distinct detented positions. Something internal has broken to permit the rotation and shaft movement..

Adding to Howard's response:

The switch can easily be disassembled by gently prying away the two tabs on the back. Even if you buy a new switch, I suggest you do this and lubricate it. The difference is very noticeable and well worth the 5 minutes of effort.

Thanks for the info.
I just bought a replacement switch off eBay and am pretty sure it is coming from Gerry in San Diego.

I also pulled the front bumper out of storage today. I am glad I decided not to spend any money on the rear bumper at this time. The front bumper is in worse shape.
The lower section is bent badly and needs a complete replacement. Also, the right side bullet has rust holes through it.

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Mike at Tucson Packards just recently got in several large shipments that included some nice bumpers so you might check with him. When I had one of my own straightened and replaced last year, it cost $1000 and wasn’t nearly as bad as yours (just a few jack marks) so keep that in mind with the cost of a good replacement.

That said, the one in your photo appears to be 1956 but I will have a straight 1955 bumper available soon. Although the lower piece needs replating too, it is otherwise very straight.

I disassembled most of the front bumper this weekend... it is not pretty.

A side from the lower portion being bent all the hell, the upper section has serious rust where the bullets bolt on. The front mounting bolts/pins inside both bullets no longer exist.

You know, first impressions being what they are, this is the most visible area of the car. I just loathe the thought of using this crappy bumper after 11 years of work.

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Mike Chirco just got several truckloads of parts in including many bumpers some of which may be 1955. Apparently they are all super-straight. I will have one soon too along with a nice grille and, while the lower is very straight, it has some surface rust.

I contacted several of our more popular parts supplies about a bumper and weighed all my options.
Then Tuscan Packard made me an offer I could not refuse. I only blew one month's budget and not the three months I expected to spend.
It will not be a refinished bumper but from his lot. The pictures look good anyway.

I am expecting the fan control knob this week so I can get that done.

Almost have the horn complete but I have a question for you guys.
The metal ring in the first picture. I see it bolts down but is there a clamp (or something) to hold the spring in place or is the spring just compressed under the horn ring?

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