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Re: 1940 Super 8 Water Pump
#21
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todd landis
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Just looked again, no place to have motor mounts on either side of the block. Heavy metal/rubber mounts on either side of tranny, along with the engine snubber, and a round metal/rubber pad for the back of the tranny/overdrive. Thanks

Posted on: 8/27 19:19
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Re: 1940 Super 8 Water Pump
#22
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HH56
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Just FYI, if the 356 engine is one that has the side stabilizers they look something like this. This one is the Clipper version and there is one positioned on each side and bolted to the front cross member 4 or 5 inches back from where the front motor mount bolts. It would be kind of interesting to know the reason or the issue as to why some models with the 356 had them and others apparently did not need them. I believe the basic single front mount and each side of transmission rear mounts was the same for all engines.

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Posted on: 8/27 19:42
Howard
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Re: 1940 Super 8 Water Pump
#23
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su8overdrive
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The front outriggers, "stabilizers" in 1941-47 Packard Clipper Master Parts Book parlance, were added to the 356 from 1941-on to prevent the fan blades (same fan 1940-50) from hitting the radiator/cradle, since the engine torques to the left (driver's side).

The two Packard copper washers, #302770, are .390" inner diameter, .625 (5/8ths inch) outer diameter, .046 thick, but am told by lifelong Packard wrench and parts supplier that the ones from NAPA per my picture, first page of this thread, are fine. You just want relatively soft copper in those two recessed areas. With hard cast iron on either side, 25-30 ft. lbs. torque per the brown 1946-50 Packard Shop Manual will have them conforming without any Permatex, etc. unless like me, a trace makes you feel better.

Posted on: 8/27 21:06
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Re: 1940 Super 8 Water Pump
#24
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Joe Santana
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Automotive Friction Co, a small specialized shop in Oregon rebuilt my water pump 7 years ago that I can recommend.
20521 SE Hwy 212
Damascus, OR 97089
(971) 245-2570

Posted on: 9/1 20:16
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Re: 1940 Super 8 Water Pump
#25
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todd landis
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No side stabilizers, only on transmission. Just finished raising up the front of the engine to get the belt from between the balancer and lower radiator port. I think I want to die. Hands and knuckles scrapped up, along with a couple dings to the radiator core, nothing major. FYI for anyone else trying this and leaving the hood on. I used a bottle jack on the passenger wide with a 2x4 block around 10 inches long as a cushion between the jack ram and the oil pan bolts. Turned sideways. And a small mobile crane bolted to a stud for the oil filter driver side of the block. Make sure you almost fully loosen the four nuts on the bolts for the stabilizers on either side of the transmission. Slowly going back and fourth from side to side slowly moving up the front of the engine. I used two smaller and longer bolts as guides when lifting the front brace. They can be used when lowering to assist in aligning the bolt holes. It looks like I just might be able to get to the two front rubber mounts, I might give it a try? They were new Steele parts from about 25 years ago. Steele using softer rubber are probably squashed on the bottom?
Thanks All!!

Posted on: 9/1 21:33
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