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You know, I did pause when I wrapped that Teflon tape on that fitting but then I received it that way so I went ahead and used it. I don't think they know any more about this stuff than I do. That rubber hose alone could lead to a catastrophic failure for someone.

I swapped out most of the fittings and replaced the rubber hose with a metal brake line.

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Even if the hose failed, it wouldn't affect the brakes. It would just leak all the fluid above that point.

But there would still be fluid up to the top master cylinder so everything would work as normal.

The lid on the master cylinder just keeps dirt, debris and excess moisture out and most have an vent hole. But brakes function regardless if the lid is on or off.

I have been bypassing the Neutral safety switch but now I want to install it before I complete the the fresh air vent install.
How can I test it to know it is even functioning correctly?
I have a multimeter but I usually have to youtube how use it.

I also will have to make adjustments in the switch (if possible) due to having a 700R4 trans.

Just hook the reverse lights to the neutral lights. The lights will illuminate when you are in Park or N.

I don't know what the shift pattern is on a 700R4. Adjusting the factory switch may not be possible. You may need to get a universal switch to set up for the reverse functionality.

I don't think you are going to be able to use the Packard switch because of its two functions and a completely different shift quadrant layout. What to use might be a question others who have adapted the GM trans can answer though.

Because the GM trans has a completely different pattern going P, R, N, D, L instead of P, N, D, L, R the spacing and order is completely different so the Packard switch will not be able to accommodate both functions with that trans. Most GM switches appear to wrap around the column and operate via a direct connection to the rotating shift tube sliding a contact in a line rather than being connected by a link and rotated in a circle as Packard does.. You might be able to check around the many versions of a GM switch and find something operated by linkage you could custom adapt to the Packard column or investigate using two separate switches for the different functions.

For anyone interested, the Packard switch has a rotating wafer inside that has a connecting bar embedded. The link connected to the shift lever and tube rotates the wafer and bar via the connection as the operator lever is moved from one side of the quadrant to the other. .With the Ultramatic, Park and Neutral are next to each other and the switch is constructed so the rotating wafer can short two wider terminals at one end of its travel to catch both ranges. That pair provides the start interlock function. Reverse is on the other end of the quadrant so as the wafer rotates it will open the start interlock terminals as it leaves neutral and goes toward reverse. When Reverse position is just reached the bar connects the other two terminals together for the reverse lights.

Adjustment of the Packard switch so both functions work consistently can be tricky and sometimes requires a compromise even with perfect linkage but if anything is worn or modified for another transmission adjustment for even one function to work reliably can be very difficult if not impossible.

You guys answered a question that I have long wondered about.
The original NSS is useless for me.

So I am going to continue to bypass it, for now anyway.
Planning to do as humanpotatohybrid suggested and connect the reverse lights.

The image below is from the manual for my wire harness.
I am thinking that the second wire (#956) might be the wire I need to use for that.

The top wire (#958) provides a 12v power source and I already have a power source off the starter.

Does that sound right?

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956 would go from the reverse light switch to the trunk. if there are two wires, then one to each side but if only one wire Packard had a short harness that connected the right side tail light assy to a junction point where the main body harness was routed on the left side to end the left light. Inline connectors were used to join the two looms and the lights. That short harness ran in the small trough at the rear of the trunk floor adjacent to the vertical panel at bottom of trunk lid. As I recall, there is a grommeted exit hole for the license light and fuel sender wires in that trough.

Using 958 would be the proper way to power the backup lights as it is fused and they would only work when the key was on. I can't think of a power source coming off the starter that is not always on so you would need to remember the backup lights will be active at any time the lever is in reverse. For safety's sake you should add an inline fuse in the wire before it reaches the reverse light switch.

I see it needs more info.
This image is NOT my setup but it does show some of what my harness contains.

You see the purple (#919) that led to and from the NSS.

At the moment I have the 2 ends of #919 wired together.
Without that, the engine will not start.
So, they have power when I turn the key.

Would I connect the reverse lights wire to these two wires or am I way off base?

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The description says the 919 wire is only powered when the ign switch is in the start position so it is only used to bring in the solenoid when starting the engine. It would be the same as the brown wire from the start terminal on the Packard switch and would not be a good source as power for the reverse lights.

Without a drawing of the internal fuse block connections am not a hundred percent sure which of the two wires coming from ign sw -- 932 or 933 -- is feeding the gauge fuse that provides power to 958 but I suspect from the description it will be 933. I would plan to bring that 958 wire out to power the reverse lights.

Who cares if the reverse circuit has constant power. You don't leave the shifter in reverse when you park the car I would assume.

(Though on the Hydramatics this actually is what you would do.)