Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

Thanks Jim, Good info. Based on site advice here, I will be most dilligent on numbering, tagging, recording and photograghing all steps in the diassembly process. I did speak with, I believe it was Lazard at Apple yesterday, and he was most helpful and seemed very knowledgeable. He gave me advice on the camber settings and also the proper orientation of the shocks re left and right, so I feel I have a reasonable shot at the 'monkey see-monkey do' mechanics of it all and hopefully can get them R&R'd such that my alignment is the same and that I have the suspension back to factory spec. Chris.

Hey Gents,
Just a quick update. I did manage to remove my front shocks. It was 'serious fun' and I may have invented a couple of new swear words! For anyone who has this task 'on the to-do list' I was able to access all 4 bolts without removing the inner fender shields. I removed the 3 'easy' frame bolts from the shock body and then the castleated nut attaching the shock to the king pin upright. The shock end slides up easily and with a 'knuckle bar' and socket I bas able to break the last bolt loose. The whole shock was then easy to swivel outward, allowing lots of room to ratchet the last bolt out. I took lots of pictures and bagged & tagged every piece. I bought a set of spring compressors to restrain the coils but with the tranny stands under the front suspension arms, I didn't need them. Also be sure to have something to support the drum bodies as they will drop down once the shock arm is released and they only thing stopping their travel is the rubber brake line. Now to ship to Apple and see where all THAT goes..... Chris

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Apple Hydraulics just received my rear shocks yesterday. They said they should ship back to me in 7 to 10 days.

Hi Don,
Just curious... anything back from Apple?? I was going to send mine down but we're in the throes of a mail strike up here in Canada and any other available options are exorbitant. I'm heading down to the US in a month or so and will take them with me and mail stateside. Juat wanted to check in with you re turnaround time and your experience rating/product satisfaction with you shocks? Chris.

Not yet. I’m expecting them to ship any time now. I need to call and follow up with them. I did get my new leaf springs today. The new U-bolts shipped separately and should arrive tomorrow. I’ll keep you posted on the shocks.

EDIT - Apple had told me 10 business days from when they received the shocks. If I count Thursday and Friday of last week as holidays, then this coming Friday will just be 10 days.

The last set of front shocks I got from "The Dallas Zone Office" proved to be good, and non-leaking.

I pulled the old ones off and had set them on the floor until I could put them away. Over night there was a puddle of fluid around them.

When removing front shocks,you can spray penetrating oil on the bolt ends and fixed nuts up in the inside of the frame above the coil springs. When removing the shocks, note any washers between the shock body and the top of the frame, and keep track of them. The top of the frame is probably not exactly flat, and the bottom of the shock body is flat. When replacing the shocks, set them on the bare frame and rock them to see if they sit level at all four corners. If not, place washers as needed at the low spots so that the shock body sits flat, then start the bolts and tighten them. You do NOT want to distort the shock body by bolting it to the frame without shimming under it as needed. It's a good idea to check the bolts for tightness after driving the car a hundred miles or so.

Chris - I got notification today that my shocks have shipped from Apple Hydraulics. They are currently showing that they should be delivered on Monday….but then again, it’s USPS so that’s just an optimistic guideline.

Both my shocks had washers between the frame and the shock body on the two inner holes only.

Thanks Don - hope you get good results. Kev, is the 'Dallas Zone Office' the source I think it is?? LOL And yes, my shocks also just had washers on the inside 2 holes. The way the frame steel is box-formed, it appears to overlap on the top and leave a ridge the thickness of the frame gauge, and the 2 back washers compensate for the difference. You mention leaving your shocks overnight and finding leakage; lucky you! Mine are so dry they flop up and down with zero resistance. I, of course, tried topping them up whilst they were still on the car and one of them leaked the fluid as fast as I poured it in and the other took overnight to empty. Definitely shot and in need of a rebuild. Chris.