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"Marine engine" is a good one, lol. I'm seriously suspecting some sort submarine adventure in the past. We'll see how bad it is when I open it up. At the very least I'll gain some experience on engine disassembly, and maybe some useable parts. If the engine itself can be saved then that would be great, but I'm not holding my breath.

With the car only being $300 I think I got my money's worth with just the grille and headlight rings. Anything else I pull from the car is just icing on the cake. Fuel pump, carb, dizzy, oil cap, air cleaner, etc.



Ross, thanks for the clarification. I started off drilling 3/8" holes but realized they didn't give me enough wiggle room. I've enlarged them to 7/16" but will need to grind one or two a bit more to get them lined up. The plate on this engine stand is massive. It's a solid 3/4" thick and takes forever to drill through. Lots of WD-40 to use as a cutting and cooling fluid, which helped tremendously.

I like your idea of putting the holes lower to help with center of gravity. My mounting plate isn't going to allow that unfortunately due to the shape and size. There are huge holes in it for the original mounting system, and I had to center my holes between all of them.

-Kevin

It may cost $300 in PB Blaster to get that engine apart!

Quote:

Make sure your speed is not too high. 350 is less than first gear full throttle on a 3 speed DeWalt.

static.onecms.io/wp-content/uploads/pdfs ... 10/26/WOOD-DrillPressSpeedChart.pdf

Off topic:
Ross do you still have your "After Eight" project? If so, do you plan to finish it at some point in the future?
That was a great project and I was enjoying following your progress - then POOF! It disappeared!
I haven't been able to find the thread for the project here. I don't know what I'm doing wrong in setting up the search.

Thank you!

Thread cutting oil might do a much better job on heavy drilling than WD 40 or other common substances. A sharp bit is essential. I'd want to start with pilot holes, perhaps 1/8", and use an oil can to apply frequent shots of cutting oil to keep the large bit cool. I have used hole saws to make larger holes, like 7/8", in 5/8 steel plate with some success.

Not much time available for work last night between kid's concerts and church/community responsibilities. But I had a few minutes to finish the mounting plate. I corrected two small misalignments in the lower holes. I mounted the plate with grade 8 bolts, 3/8" 16. I had to place washers between the mounting plate and the block, otherwise the lower edge of the mount would interfere with the flange of the oil pan. I used 3 washers on the two front bolts, and 4 washers on the two rear bolts. The two front bolts are 1 3/4", the upper rear is 2", and the lower rear is 1 1/2".

The mounting plate is canted for two reasons. 1.) the anti-rotation pin hole is closer to vertical on this angle, and 2.) I tried to keep the new holes far enough away from the original holes.

I need to get this up onto the stand tonight. The shop is being used for several activities this week (including a Christmas party), and the engine is right in the middle of it all.

Hey! I recognized the name Rusty McRustface and said this is the guy from Youtube. The 356 in my '40 is all apart and the block and crank are at the machinist. I like your idea on side mounting the plate for the engine stand. When I took apart the 356, almost every piston ring was broken. Funny thing was, the previous owner had just resealed the oil pan and other components and with new paint on them as if it were ready to go in. Luckily, they didn't get that far, cause it wouldn't have run. I have some video of my 356 disassembly. Perhaps I should soon commit some time to editing a video of engine disassembly.

Exciting to watch the progress!

Mark

(This may be a duplicate.)
If so, DOUBLE THANKS for the link to the After Eight project blog.