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As an addendum to the above, you may find it quite simple to rebuild the wiper motor yourself. Note that the fasteners are unusual but I have found needle nose pliers work fine to remove/install them.
Take picture from every angle as you start work and after every part is removed so you know the exact location and orientation of each part.
The usual culprits are, 1: the gaskets dry out and leak, (first 80+ years are always the hardest on them). By carefully using an X-acto type blade these can be teased away from the pot metal housings. Use a micrometer to measure the gasket material's thickness and pick a sheet of it up at your local parts dealer. Since you took your time to remove the old gasket you can now duplicate the new one by tracing, cutting and punching the fresh ones from this sheet.
The other culprit, 2: will be the paddle itself. This is usually dried out and the seal around the sides has been compromised to allow the vacuum to get around it without making it move.
Again take careful images of the valve set-up at the end of the paddle so it can be reassembled properly. Then, with the valve toggle assembly off, you can lift out the paddle.
Give it a good cleaning, I use brake fluid so as to not damage the rubber and at the same time it softens it up some too.
With the paddle out, use white polishing compound on the wiper body core, the walls will usually have some debris build-up from the paddle toggling back and forth and there will be a definite line where the stroke of the paddle stops between pivoting. I polish this up as best as I can to ensure a good seal with the paddle walls.
I then wipe down the paddle well and put some fresh brake fluid on the sides and pivot axle to help with the seal and reduce friction.
Reassemble using your newly made gaskets and test run it before installation by running a rubber hose off the manifold or carburetor tap.
Hope you haver success!
Bob J.

Wow…thanks, Bob for taking the time to provide so much information. Here are a couple more photos of the wiper vacuum line…

It comes from under the dash (previous photo) to this point going to the fuel pump assembly. It is connected there to a new rubber hose since the fuel pump was recently rebuilt.




This picture (holding the phone where I couldn’t see) is where the rubber hose then goes on to the fuel pump assembly.

Nice, looks like you just need to put a cap on the line under the dash and you are good to go with sealing the vacuum from the engine for now until your wiper motor is redone.
Bob J.

Done. I’ll attempt the rebuild of the wiper motor later this winter. After I get my re-built shocks installed (USPS is WAY behind), the next project is to install the Carter carburetor. Then, once I have that in order, I’ll pull the exhaust manifold and get it coated with Cerakote.

Then, when I have that back and confirm everything is back to a good state, I’m going to pull everything out of the dash and get all the trim pieces out for re-woodgraining. While I’m waiting on that, I’ll try rebuilding the wiper motor. Then, when the trim pieces come back, I’ll reinstall everything under the dash and rewire everything using the correct wire and with a focus of keeping it tidy. When I did it before, I just used whatever wire I had (correct guage) and didn’t worry about keeping it neat as I just wanted to see if I could get everything working.

Things are happening and it’s a lot of fun!

Once again, I can’t say enough how appreciative I am of everyone on this site. I’d be nowhere near this far along with you all.

Sometimes even just the encouragement helps even when no actual help is needed!

Quote:

Definitely!

Well, the USPS claims that my shocks are finally out for delivery after spending a week about 30 minutes away. Fingers crossed. Meanwhile, other Christmas gifts shipped by USPS had been sitting in Kansas City for a week now (again, about 30 minutes away). But, NOW, they are on the move….to Baton Rouge, LA. Apparently my packages need to make a tour of the entire country before getting to me. Oops!

Oh well, all things considered, life is good. Currently, that is the only thing I have to complain about, so life is pretty good!

If the shocks do arrive, I’ll post some pics and plan to have them on the car today.

The shocks made it here!

Unpacked. It’s a little hard to tell in the photos, but they come with a gunmetal primer. The appear darker in the pictures than they actually are.









Step 1 complete. I used rust encapsulator with care to keep it out of the threads of the end caps, etc…








Just need to let them sit for a couple hours and then I can get them on the car.