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A step at a time and it usually gets done. You can remove the seat frame from the tracks at the top but may find it easier to go under the car and remove the nuts holding each track to the body and remove them. That way you can disassemble for cleaning and lubrication and to check for any broken pieces. Here is an older post where someone has done just that. I believe Kev has more detailed photos showing them apart somewhere in his 54 Clipper project blog. Several have found some of the steel balls in the tracks to be missing which also leads to hard movement.

I don't know for a fact if 53 is the same as a 55 power seat, but you may mind this helpful. Probably the same for most intents if you disregard the power stuff.

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As additional information, prior to 54 Packard only offered 2 way hydraulic operated power seats as part of the hydraulic system operating windows and/or top. In 54 they offered their first stand alone and all electric 4 way seat option but also kept the 2 way available, I believe in both electric and hydraulic versions..

The 54 4 way system used motors and reversing relays much like the system some Ford products used and may have been sourced from their vendor. I have yet to find a Packard issued full wiring diagram for the 54 electric 4 way system but Packard Don did post some photos of the motors and relays in one of his blogs. The 54 system is different both electrically and I believe mechanically from the later 4 way system offered in 55-6.

I just could not stop after getting the seat bottom out. The tracks looked like they were in good shape, so I spayed everything with P B Blaster very carefully. I let it sit for about an hour and went to working the control and the seat started moving. So, 1 little win for now anyway.

I did find this under the seat on the driver's side. I guess someone before me installed this battery cut off switch as a theft deterrent. I am guessing this is not factory since the red key is plastic. You turn it remove the key, and the battery is shut off entirely.





My dilemma now is the seat was actually almost all the way back and now with it all the way back sadly I do not have enough room between the seat back and the steering wheel to really be comfortable for a guy my size. I would welcome any suggestions on how to make more room between the seat and the steering wheel.

I struggled with getting the glove box open today as well. I did get it open and have lubricated the slides and will work on getting that to operate properly next round.












Seems some critters some place along the way used it for their lunch break room. Fortunately, they did not damage anything just left the scraps behind for me to clean up.

Question? Can anyone tell me what this knob on the side of the steering column does.







I am absolutely beat so off to relax and take it easy for the rest of the day.

The cut off switch it definitely aftermarket and if the battery is still in the original spot under the hood someone added a considerable excess length of cable to reach it in that location. If the car is still 6v I do hope they used at least 00 gauge wire for the extra length or there could be starting issues. 6v wiring in general and ignition systems in particular are often unforgiving when there is excess voltage drop due to long or too small cables or dirty terminals and connections. The starters can pull a lot of current turning the big engine and if the limited amount of voltage falls much, the coil is weak and spark becomes very erratic.

Some have removed the seat tracks from the floor and drilled new holes farther back to move the seat away from the wheel. If you do this make sure the floor reinforment plate welded to the body is still being used for the new holes. If the back ones no longer go thru the reinforcement then add some flat steel or large diameter fender washers under the new holes to add additional thickness to the sheetmetal to spread the load before bolting the tracks down. Some have also managed to gain enough space by putting shims under the front of the track to tilt the seat back a small amount.

While you are working around the glove box feel GENTLY around the metal cover over the top and see if you are one of the lucky ones where the build slip is still present. That will be a strip of teletype paper a couple of inches wide and about 8-9 inches long with some numbers and letters printed on it. The paper will be taped on and very fragile so if present take care not to damage it when removing.

If nothing is found over the glovebox, other places build sheets have been found in unmolested cars is under the carpet or mat on the transmission hump or rolled and then folded up into a tiny square which is stuffed between the gas fill and vent tubes on the gas tank.

For the seat distance, you may at first want to see if you get used to it, as these cars were all like this. I am 6'8" and I fit in a bit awkwardly, but I am just used to it now.

Obviously on my daily driver I am much farther back from the wheel.

HH56

Thanks for the help. The car has been converted to 12 volt and from what I am seeing it was done fairly well. I am not happy with the way the alternator was mounted but nothing I have not had to fix in the past. I am a pretty good fabricator and have very good welding equipment.

Tanks for the tip about the build sheets that would be a cool item to have.

All in all, the previous work seems to have been done well. I do not think it is high end show quality work, but my goal is only to bring it up to driver quality standards and have fun driving it.

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Yea sadly not too many vehicles fit us big guys, but I am going to have to do something my belly blows the horn. My guess I need at least 3 more inches.

The knob on the side of the steering column is for the windshield wipers and actuates them by way of a small cable so be sure it gets lubricated so as to move freely. Also, when using WD40 to free up something, be sure to actually lubricate it afterward which in this case would be with grease. WD40 is not a lubricant in spite what the label says. They do make a lubricant but the standard WD40 isn’t one.