Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

When I purchased my 1940 Business Coupe it had already been converted to 12V, but was still positive ground. I converted it to negative ground and installed an alternator that looks like a generator. Brake, tail, and tag lights work fine. When I turn on running lights all is fine. When switch is pulled out to turn on headlights the running lights on the hood work fine and the right headlight works, but, the left one is off. When the dimmer switch is mashed, the right headlight goes out, the running lights get dim, and the left headlight comes on very dim. I've removed the dimmer switch and chased continuity and current there and at junction block. I think I've confined it to a short in the left headlight bucket. I've removed the screw in the bottom of the rim and tried to pull out from the bottom and even tried to twist it like a Model T, but, I can't get the rim to move. Is there a secret or is it just stuck. I didn't want to mess up the paint by prying it off with a screwdriver. Am I way off base with my thinking?

Most of the headlight rings have a tab at the top. So remove the screw at bottom, and the push up get tab out of its hole, then straight forward.

No doubt there is a short in the left headlight circuit on one brightness, and probably a broken wire in the other (could be a burned out filament though).

The cloth wiring on these cars is generally heavily deteriorated except for extremely well cared for examples. Once you do one headlight I would immediately do the other as well as check on anything else you can find without replaced wiring.

They sell safe repro cloth wiring.

The headlight rim is probably stuck. Gentle persuasion will get it loose. The screws are a fine thread, and I found it a little difficult to get them started correctly. I'd be careful with them, and keep careful track of them, since finding replacements might be a challenge. Don't over-tighten them. They need to be just snug. If you're worried about the screw coming loose, put a dab of something like clear silicone on the screw head after installing it.

I took out the one coarse thread screw that holds the trim ring in place and that's it. I've tried to then pull it out from the bottom a little to get it to come out of the top slot, but, it will not move. I tried inserting a hook between the trim ring and the ring that actually holds the light in place and pull forward, but, all that did was slip out and stick in my finger! I think I'll try to bump around it with a rubber hammer and if that don't work try a hook like used to remove the hubcaps on my dually. The wiring harness is new--but, I didn't install it and I didn't check the lights when I bought the car.

The headlights and most other equipment are not hardwired into the factory harness and need to each be addressed on their own. Who knows if this was done (probably not).

Clearly not for the headlights, not just because of your problem, but also that they are sticking in place from age.

OKAY! It's been 2 weeks and I've been chasing this problem and found a bad ground that stops the really strange actions, but, I've still got my big problem of not being able to remove the headlight trim rings. Is there some secret? Under the bucket is a hole and one inch split in the bucket from the hole to the trim ring. Is there some significance in this? I've taken out the screw in the bottom of each rim and tried to pull them out a little to push it up to release it from the upper tab, but, I can't get the rim to come out at all. I've tried pulling on it with a hook and even taking a pair of brake pliers, curling the hook into the hole in the rim (only the rim), putting a line wrench on the other end and tapping with a hammer--like a home made slap hammer. It still seems solid--not a sign of movement! I'd like to know if there's some secret other than just applying more force.

I think I used a wooden chop stick and tapped it all the way around.

I GOT IT OFF! For anyone else with this problem in the future, I'll post what I did. After chasing the gremlins repeatedly, I found a bad ground. I had left a ground wire unhooked after removing the voltage regulator when I replaced the generator with an alternator that looks like a generator. The car had already been converted to 12 volt, but, was still positive ground. I just converted it to negative ground. While chasing the gremlins, I burned out the right front headlight. So, back to the problem of removing the headlight rim. Both were stuck, They were apparently painted and assembled when converted to 12 V, but assembled very quickly after painting. I tried tapping all around with a rubber hammer, then tapping around with a paint stir stick hit with a hammer, then hitting a plastic chisel around with a hammer. (I couldn't beat all around without removing the bucket, and, I felt the fender could hold it better than I could.)
What finally worked was.....Remove the screw in the bottom of the rim. Place a flat screwdriver between the headlight and rim against the tab where the screw goes into and bend it back slightly. Take a pair of brake pliers and hook the curly end into the screw hole in the rim. Cover the fender with a thick towel and get someone to hold the pliers up while you place a 7 1/2 lb weight (from small barbell) over the shaft of the pliers, then put a 1/2 in line wrench against the big spring removal part of the brake tool with helper holding the end of the line wrench while you slam back against the wrench with the weight until the rim starts to move, then come off. Replace the headlight as normal . The rim was so tight going back on that it was put in place and a 12 inch 1x4 board was placed on the bottom of the rim and driven into place and the holding screw was replaced. All is now working!

It's always amazes me of the holding strength of paint!