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I also got those other circled dents on the quarter (from prior posts) fixed.

Also got both rockers reinstalled which is always a joy. Trying to get them realigned, and installed in never fun. And it involves using a 2x4 on a floor jack to raise the wood floor off the frame enough to pull the body mount rubber from between the floor and the center frame outrigger. The rockers screw into the bottom of the wood floor, and the rocker get sandwiched between the frame outrigger, the rubber body mount, and the wood floor. So to install or remove the rockler, that rubber mount has to be pulled out and the reinstalled.

I ran out yesterday after work to the local AirGas location and got more C25 welding gas. I had a 40cf bottle, and I was just consuming that size bottle too quickly. So I paid the difference and traded in my bottle for a 80cf one. It's cheaper in the long run as it's about 30% cheaper to fill a 80cf bottle once then it is to fill a 40cf bottle twice. So hopefully this larger refill gets me through the remainder of welding projects on the '37.

Also, for those wondering about the status of the motor, I imagine it's still in the crate. I wouldn't think Russell would be back in the shop until after the holidays, nor do I know what he may already have inline ahead of it. So once he surfaces and gets it unpacked, I'll provide an update.

For those that liked the patina... sorry the de-patina process has begun.




The metal is in pretty decent shape, except for that weird rust staining spot you sometimes get in places that just doesn't sand off. My 54 had alot of that on the roof.

Since the patina was faked on this car, there were many layers different paint. Some were for sure latex.

But underneath that was the original Buckingham Grey following by the standard Packard Red Oxide primer.

With all the patina sanded down on thr rear quarters, I could identify all the minor dents/lowspots. Look how many there are around the entry side of the rumbleseat.




The plan is to get the body shell down to bare metal, and then shoot with DTM Epoxy to hold it. Then I will onto all the fenders that need the majority of the body work.

Can anyone get me good pictures of the shape of the rear roll pan on a 1937 115-C/120-C convertible coupe or a sports coupe?

I need to have the pictures from multiple angles so I can understand the original shape and profiles. Especially in relation to rear fenders.

I need to rework that pan as mine was replaced and made to fit the shape of the stretched fenders. So as such it doesn't align to the original fenders.




Need to understand how the corners curve in and how the middle section is shaped and bends under. Also how curved left to right the middle section is, and also where it starts to curve towards the fender.

In a perfect world, I'd imagine the center section just comes down and curves under. Then the corners have a compound curve over to meet the fenders. So could be made in three pieces. But I have a fear center section has more of a compound curve to it then I hope.

I only spent a brief time working on the car today and didn't get to any messy work. But instead took care of some other tasks so I can start the full paint stripping. Sorry, didn't take any pictures.

So I removed all the door, trunk and rumbleseat handles. Removed the door and vent windows. Also removed the tack strip from the top area.

Next I need to remove the dash panels to keep them clean. Same goes with the banjo wheel. The I will pull the windshield entire windshield assembly.

That should pretty much get everything cleared from the body shell that may get damaged from all the sanding and give me full access to take the entire shell down to bare metal.

I'll also probably need to pull the rumble seat and trunk lids as well.

For rust.

Get phosphoric acid. It's all food grade.
But 75%. .
And mix it.

Think the general mix is 5 to 1.

That will prepare the metal for epoxy.

Body shops sell metal prep.. but what you pay for a pint or qt. You can get a gallon of plain phosphoric acid.

My dad's hood. Over a year and no. Flash rust.

I'm working on a bump in hood from and aerosol can top.

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Mix it with what?

Don

Water..

More than likely, finish paint will not happen before summer driving season comes along, but the plan is to get all the major body work complete, and then everything left in black epoxy for to hold it. Which has the appearance of e-coat. If I stick on some red wheels I could blend in with the hot rod guys this summer!

But hopefully by next winter I will have had a few coats of high-build primer on it and it blocked and ready for a sealer and final paint.

This is the color I am leaning towards. It's Aston Martin Almond Green which is a modern/current paint code which is supposed to be the same as 1937 Packard Almond Green. I have 3 or 4 sets of 1937 Paint Chips sheets from different manufacturers and they all have the same issue where many of the colors have turned so dark from age they are nearly black.

I've seen so many pictures of Packards in Almond Green and they all look completely different.

But this also does appear to look like Almond Green on Pat Aldrich's 120 Convertible Coupe.