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Just oil the block a bit and then drape some plastic sheeting or bags over the area; the bags will stick to the oil and prevent evaporation of the magic juice.

Got tired of looking at the ugly block, so tired it outside and took the wire wheel to it. Got quite a bit cleared off. Found some spots that look like the original paint color on it:




Looks more olive drab than gray. But can't be sure that the color hasn't been corrupted over time.

Block looks slightly better now




I was about to get 4 of the intake valves moving by using a good amount of heat. I put a torch on the intake hole and aimed it at the stem/guide. Then I adjusted the lifter up to force the valve up. With them moving and up off the seat I think I can get those ones out. Going to try and find an old school slide hammer with a valve attachment.

I'm going to try some Bleche White on the other steps to see if maybe it will dissolve the rust.

Your engine block, head, pan, water pump and valve covers should be Packard Grey which is available from Hirsch.

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Correct. I guess I was commenting on the color being far more of a greenish gray, which I think Hirsch supplies. BigKev painted his engine with the Hirsch paint and it's definitely more of greenish/olive drab tint. Picture of Kev's car:




I have a gallon of the Majik Massey Ferguson Gray that Ross uses. It's definitely more gray than the Hirsch paint, but still has a bit of green to it. I'll probably end up painting the engine and trans (assuming they can be saved) with the MF Gray since I already have it.

Over the years I've noticed quite a bit of variation in the Hirsch grey color and I once got a batch the same olive drab shade and may be even still have a small amount of it. Most that I've gotten, though, is definitely grey with no hint of the olive drab.