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Crud in the block is normal, especially if the car sat with the cooling system empty, but not flushed clean. Any acid type rust sauce will only work well on oil-free surfaces. All oil would need to be removed.

Why did you want to take the studs out? As for a home-build, that’s what I always do too but I do have any outside work done where it can get done better and more efficiently such as tanking the block. Of course, you’ll need to remove the cam bearings and distribution tube first but I can’t think of a reason why the studs need to be removed. They use very tight tolerance rolled threads where they go into the block so at best they’re tight. I have a stud removal tool but it does mess up the studs a little and they are over $5 ea to replace with new so best to leave them alone.

If you don’t mind my two-cents worth, here’s what I would do and is more or less what I what I will be doing on the 1951 Henney-Packard.

Strip down the block of anything removable including the coolant and distribution tube and take the block to the shop for tanking. First thing to do is to have them Magniflux it for cracks before putting any more time or money into it, then if crack-free, have them remove the cam bearings, tank it then reinstall new ones to match your cam. You would have to do that anyway and even as a seasoned mechanic, I prefer to have that done rather than to do it myself. They can probably help with the stuck valves too far easier than you or I can as they have the equipment and tanking alone may do the trick. They can polish the cam if needed but otherwise they can assure of a good fit even if worn as long as the lobes are good. If the lobes are not good, this is the time to know and get it fixed by regrinding the cam.

When reassembling, use a new timing chain and inspect the gears, replacing if needed. I have never had to replace timing gears but I imagine there are times when they are worn excessively so must be replaced.


On your engine, you will be far better off replacing all the valves considering their condition and have them replace the valve guides, lap or grind the valve seats and lightly hone the cylinders. That way they can give a report of whether to not you can get by without boring them. You should probably replace the wrist pins in the pistons even if using the old pistons and, of course, new rings.

I know this sounds like a lot but these things must be done to assure a good-running and quiet engine when completed!