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Another issue I’m trying get a handle on with this 41 110 deluxe is the fuel supply…as it sits now, the motor does not have the mechanical fuel pump at base where I believe there should be one..it just has a delete plate…there is an electrical pump located at tank…the problem I have is 1. I don’t think the fuel pump is proper psi nor is it positive ground…when I test battery with key off it reads about 6.3 volts…when I turn key on and fuel pump is activated..battery drops quickly to 5.7 volts which makes a really slow crank…the car will start but motor is extremely slow turning…I was thinking there must be an electrical pump that will prime carb and then automatically shut off at rehashed psi allowing more voltage to battery at start up…the drop,is defined from fuel pump..rebuilt working generator, starter, and wiring positive ground…any suggestions of where to start with this? Thanks for all the help I get here…I will add pics I do have a working fuel pump from a 1940 engine if I could use it?

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The electric fuel pump should have no significant effect on starter cranking performance. Either the battery, or the cables and wiring, or the starter itself is underperforming, or the fuel pump is drawing far more power than it ever should. I doubt if the fuel pump is drawing more than 3 amps, if that.

The battery voltage with no load should read over 6 volts. The no-load voltage at the battery terminals may not tell the whole story concerning battery condition. 5.7 volts measured at the starter terminal, WITH the starter engaged, is pretty good, perhaps too good. It may indicate that the starter has an issue, like a dirty commutator, assuming the battery and all cables are in good condition. Turning on the fuel pump should not cause any significant drop in voltage measured at the battery posts, or anywhere else. What is the blue object near the block off plate?

I see a fuel pressure regulator at the carburetor. If it is set correctly and working as it should, it should control fuel pressure. Many electric pumps will shut off once the line pressures up. I don't know if all types of them do.
Some fuel pumps are polarity sensitive, and some are not. The fuel pump will not operate as it should unless it has fuel to pump, and all lines and connections must be leak free. Any leak on the tank side of the pump will cause problems, whether gasoline leaks out or not.

Ok well starter seems to be working fine now…not getting huge voltage draw from fuel pump but it does not turn off after priming engine like it used to ..just continuous .. I think this was replaced last year and may have a much psi setting than the last one..also probably not positive ground…this all started as I was getting what appears to be valve ticking in fron engine chamber..I re gapped all the valves to corrects specs but ticking remains…it does get somewhat quieter as engine heats up but still there..? I don’t have history on car but it has not had rings or valve work since 1994 when I got it and have no idea about its history before that! I drove it a few times a year in the summer for about 10 years ..but I never checked compression or anything like that back then..kids came along and I stored until a few years ago ..then I worked on bringing back to life last year..any way all cylinders are reading about 70 psi except on at 40… I was hoping it was just stuck valve but it appears it a ring…I test compression with plugs out and choke plate open…I know I’m jumping around with this but things keep popping up..
I’ll ad video of valves thanks for all the help again! Couldn’t add video..oh and blue can is in line off water pump attached to inner fender

All the different eletric pumps I have run across run continuously. Once the reach their max PSI, they just bypass internally, but "motors" on them never stop running. If you want it to stop running, you'll need to install a fuel pressure swtich.

Ok that’s what I thought…so if I had a 2 to 4 psi it would go internally faster…I think that’s why this pump is a higher psi..thanks..

I also see a lot of rubber hose, hose clamps, etc on your fuel system.

Does it have the factory tank and sending unit with modifications made for the in-tank pump?

My thoughts - put a factory fuel pump on, restore all the factory style hardlines, and remove all the fuel pressure regulator, etc stuff.

No has reproduction tank.it’s nice..original sending unit re installed.. I don’t mind having the electric fuel pump..I just think I could get another more compatible with psi I have … the one on it came from Amazon and don’t know much about it..other than it is 6 volts