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Re: Mojave Tan - A 1956 400 Saga
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Home away from home
 
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Kevin,
I happen to be making a 56 TL harness for another customer pretty soon. So of course I could make you one as well, or if you want to DIY it I will have the materials on hand in a couple weeks. Could sell you a kit for ¢¢ instead of $$ so to speak. Quote:
This is pretty true and I don't know why it is. Good soldering, much like good welding, mainly requires just three things: knowledge of what a good joint looks like, decent equipment, and some practice. Unlike welding, though, the investment for a decent soldering setup is only like $50 nowadays, and can be used or stored almost anywhere. And like welding, it's hard to have a good substitute for it. When you need it, you need it.
Posted on: Today 13:16
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1955 400 | Registry | Project Blog
1955 Clipper Deluxe | Registry | Project Blog 1955 Clipper Super Panama | Registry Email (Parts/service inquiries only, please. Post all questions on the forum.) service@ultramatic.info |
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Re: Mojave Tan - A 1956 400 Saga
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Home away from home
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Nice work John.
I put splints on to keep wire from bending at solder joints
Posted on: Today 14:16
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Riki
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Re: Mojave Tan - A 1956 400 Saga
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Home away from home
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I grew up with one grandfather being an electrician and the other being a radio and TV repairman so learned to solder at a very early age. I earned my first dollar repairing a radio (a tube-type battery-powered radio!) and built my first theremin when I was 10 from little more than a schematic and a pile of components. I also built an electronic two keyboard organ at 14. Anyway, the list goes on and on so I do know how to solder but learned recently to stay away from Weller produces after a couple failures in a row. My TV repairman grandfather always used Weller so I have too but their quality simply isn't what it once was.
Posted on: Today 15:07
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Re: Mojave Tan - A 1956 400 Saga
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Home away from home
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Mr. Pushbutton - thanks for chiming in! I probably should rewire the whole TL system at some point. There is definitely still a problem in the "down" circuit and I haven't pulled everything back apart to check it all. Ground is not consistently sent to the solenoid. I'll double check the heater contact in the box and the wire connections at the limit switch to see what's up. If I can get everything working consistently now then I'll run with that and plan a full rewire a bit later. My only available parking spot is where the lift is, and I have several projects lined up to use the lift over the next month or two and I will need the 400 to be able to move and drive and get out of the way. I know I can drive without TL, but it will also need to go on the road as I test and repair other problems. That is some beautiful soldering by the way.
Carfreak - thanks for letting me know. I'm so used to the '51-54 cars and am finding that the '56 is a different beast altogether. It seemed the '51-54's tended to sit in the middle or right above the middle, and run at about 175-190 typically. Good to know that other '56's are reading low. As long as it's not a problem then I will leave the temperature concerns alone. I'll probably drain and flush the system before summer time for good measure. PGH - I may take you up on acquiring the supplies to rewire the TL. Again, probably not a project that I can/should do right now but I have no problem doing it before this year is up. What soldering gun is everyone using? I'm using a smaller pencil-type because I do a lot of soldering on small electronics. But it really doesn't have enough juice to handle larger wires like these cars have.
Posted on: Today 16:07
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Kevin
1954 Clipper Super Panama | Registry | Project Blog 1938 Super 8 1605 | Registry | Project Blog 1953 Clipper Deluxe Club Sedan | Registry | Project Blog |
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Re: Mojave Tan - A 1956 400 Saga
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Home away from home
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a.co/d/j3zYXzL
Don't bother with anything cheaper. It won't be an upgrade. Maybe go 100 or 150W depending on budget.
Posted on: Today 16:19
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1955 400 | Registry | Project Blog
1955 Clipper Deluxe | Registry | Project Blog 1955 Clipper Super Panama | Registry Email (Parts/service inquiries only, please. Post all questions on the forum.) service@ultramatic.info |
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Re: Mojave Tan - A 1956 400 Saga
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Forum Ambassador
 
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Quote:
Don't use a gun. A gun is kinda OK if you are splicing two smaller gauge wires twisted together in midair. You, and the rest of the world needs an IRON, a soldering IRON. Why? because of the reserve of heat energy stored up in the element and portion of the tip that is inside the heat element. The moment you touch any soldering tool-gun, iron to a piece, or pieces of work you begin to draw that heat energy out of the tool. The Guns only have a small area of mass at the tip. Once the heat is drawn from them the transformer has to make more, "just in time". A decent iron, with some mass to the tip and barrel inside the heating element has a great deal more heat energy stored up in that mass, and can deliver in real time. I have a theory about soldering: use a big iron (but not crazy big), get in, do the work fast, and get back out. This prevents the plastic insulation from melting while you are trying to get the solder flowing for a good connection. Too small an iron, with inadequate heat energy stored will take a long time to get the joint heated sufficiently to melt the solder, and that heat will travel up the wire and start melting the insulation. For my everyday use I have a Weller 40 watt iron with about a 3/16" chisel tip, powered though a controller I made from a dining room light dimmer, a duplex outlet, a 4x4 conduit box and cover and a cord I fabricated. All items purchased at Home Depot, not a lot of money.
Posted on: Today 16:48
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Re: Mojave Tan - A 1956 400 Saga
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That is why I put the heat shrink tubing on after soldering. I'm fairly confident that I'm doing a better job than the factory did soldering these. The shrink tubing adds rigidity to the whole thing, before the tape and plastic coating is applied.
Posted on: Today 17:03
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