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JeromeSolberg wrote:
On my experience you should really use the threaded rod method. It is not as fast but it is much less likely to damage anything.

Here

threaded rod method

JeromeSolberg wrote:
So you see how I did this from this thread

valve guide extraction

I tightened the nut at the top and it pulled the valve guide up and out. The spacer at the top was large enough for the valve guide to pull through. Large washers stacked at the top and where the spacer then rested on the block.

I used standard grade 2 threaded rod. You can get hardened threaded rod from McMaster-Carr. The Grade 2 was just on the edge so you probably need stronger.

Here's that link.

link to discussion of McMaster-Carr

Owen_Dyneto wrote:
You don't need the depth gauge, just measure the deck to guide distances before removing the old guides, and note in some engines intake and exhaust are installed to different depths. I'll post pictures of the various guide drivers I've used over the years, the only commercial one is a KD-815 (2nd from left with broken tip). If you can't find a driver, easy to have one made by anyone with a lathe, the small end fits inside the guide, the middle step is larger than the bore but smaller than the guide OD so that it rests on the shoulder of the guide but can still fit thru the bore in the block. The upper diameter is whatever you find convenient as a hand-hold. I usually use a 4# hammer, an suggest you place some wood over the block in the area of the valve seat so, should you miss a blow with the hammer, you don't accidently hit the block and ruin the seat. Unless the cam and lifters have been removed, drive the guides half-way down and break off with a chisel (they are quite brittle and snap very easily) and then drive the remaining section out. Pix of suitable depth gauges shown.

When installing new guides I usually pack them in dry ice for 20 or 30 minutes first - they will drive it with very little effort.

Before starting the job, use corks or similar to plug the oil return holes in the valve chambers to any of the keepers or other debris from falling thru into the crankcase. If you're new to this type of job you might want to read "Understanding Valve Work" on The Packard Club forum.

packardclub.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=862