Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

I need to replace my headlight switch but am not sure how to do it. Is there a suggested sequence and method?

I believe you loosen the set screw on the knob, pull it off, and go from there.

The knobs are on a separate stem and do not actually connect directly to a 22-23 series switch. To replace a switch in those series you need to remove the plate assy the switches are physically mounted on so you can access the switch mounting nut. This is done from under the dash. You will also probably need to unscrew the vent control assy from the dash edge and push it out of the way so you have working room and clearance to the plate assy to remove the nut.

The plate is held to the dash and chrome knob assy by two barrel nuts on threaded studs. The nuts are recessed between switches and if there is a full complement of switches they may be a bit hard to see. The lower radio hook support and rubber position cushions may also be attached to the plate assy in such a way that the radio will need to be loosened so hooks can be removed before plate can be pulled toward the engine and tipped downward to access the switch mounting nut. The radio is heavy so be careful and also be aware that if the wiring loom is original it will be stiff and the rubber and fabric insulation on the wires could be very dry and brittle. Insulation may want to crack and fall off the wires if subject to a lot of pushing and twisting. To avoid future problems take extra care and try to disturb the loom as little as possible when maneuvering the switch panel.

Here are some photos BDeB posted years ago showing the switch plate and barrel nut locations.

It looks like I have to remove the entire assembly bracket to get to the headlight switch. Is I that correct?
I would have to remove all the switch connections?

Once the vent controls are moved aside and pressure and pieces of the radio that rest on or are attached to the switch plate are taken care of you should be able to unscrew the barrel nuts holding the switch plate assy and slide it toward the engine a few inches until the shafts clear the dash edge. From there tip the entire assy downward 45 degrees or so where you can access the nuts. Unless the loom or some wires are wrapped around something else there should not be a need to disconnect anything other than the headlight switch -- but do try and not stress the loom too much.

Out of curiosity what is happening that you need to replace the switch. If the lights are cycling on and off every few seconds it could be a short somewhere but if it happens after lights are on a few minutes it is more likely because you have an old and tired breaker. As the cars get older, that issue is becoming more common in postwar cars which used the separate breakers mounted on the ends of the switches. New 30 amp type 1 self resetting stud mount breakers can be bought at Napa and other places.. The breaker extends out from the back of the switch body and just bolts to the switch fiber terminal plate via the electrical studs. It is tight but I believe others have been able to remove and replace breakers without disturbing the entire switch. Any other problem and the switch would need to be removed but unless something is physically broken, they can be taken apart and cleaned so rarely need to be replaced. I saved a few internal switch photos another poster took when he did his switch. I could repost them if repairing a switch is what you need to do.

From experience I can add that the light switch circuit breaker can be R&R’d with the switch installed. By the way, the technical data that I’ve come across on this type of breaker suggests a typical circuit breaker has about a fifty-cycle life if repeatedly overloaded. The information didn’t add was the electrical state of the breaker after failure . . . I suspect the circuit is opened. A quick check could be made with a test light. The breaker should have power on both poles, if however, power appears on only one pole the breaker has failed, which would appear very much like a switch failure.

PS. I bet the aforementioned cycle life is voltage dependent . . . lower is better.

dp

My light switch is working, however I depress the switch and the lights don’t come on but when I depress it a second time the lights come on. The lights work both ways on low beam and high beam.
I connected the instruments lights to the headlight switch per the wiring diagram. They do not come on.

Maybe I am not following your description very well but since you have low and hi beam in the second position it sounds like the headlight switch is working as it should. The first push turns on parking lights only, second push turns off parking and turns on headlights, third push turns everything off again. The instrument lights and the little indicator light jewell showing the headlight switch is on should be powered in both the park and headlight positions.

As I recall, the instrument light switch has a high, low, and off position but remember, if a 22-23 series dash is still anywhere near stock the dash lights are not really visible like in other cars because of the dark filter over the bulbs which blocks most visible light and lets UV pass to excite the luminescent paint on the gauge needles and numbers. . At best, even at night there will only be a dim purple glow visible to the naked eye and that light may not be seen at all in bright daylight. If the luminescent paint on the instruments in the cluster has flaked off or gotten weak or been painted over with regular paint the gauges may not even be seen at night if the masks are still over the bulbs. If the filters have been taken off then you should be able to see the yellowish incandescent light but it may not be as bright as it would be in other cars designed for direct lighting.