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I'm sure part of the problem is that the car hasn't run for a couple of years. If you're getting gas when you pump the pedal, then I don't think your carburetor is the problem. It may need rebuilding, but it shouldn't be preventing it from a least firing.

I noticed fuel leaking around the gaskets after pumping. Should I just replace the gaskets and put it back on? I removed the carburetor.

I think I'm going to call it on the car for now. I'll have to revisit it late this month. I can't thank you all enough for your help and support. I learned a lot and can't wait to drive it and enjoy it this summer.

If your carb is leaking out of the gaskets I suspect your float may be stuck. You could pull just the top of the carb and check. Spray some carb cleaner in there at the same time to help clean things up. Or, rebuild it and have it ready to go for the next time you're ready to work on your car.

Let us know when you get back at it! I think you're close to getting it running!

Order some new points!

Just ordered new points. Thanks for the reminder. I think I'll order the fuel pump rebuild kit from then and now as well.

Is there a place that I can order a distributor rebuild kit or will I just need to piece replacement parts together? IGP-4502E is the Auto-Lite model I have.

A carb rebuild kit is not a bad idea, and you'll learn better how the carb works by doing it.

I would not get a distributor rebuild kit. I doubt that inside the dizzy (besides points and condenser) is the problem, considering the car ran fine before.

You have fuel, you have air, you have spark. Those three things need to be present in order for it to fire, but they also have to be present at the right time. I think you need to check your timing and be sure you have things lined up correctly. Double check your plug wires and be sure they are in the correct spot on the distributor. Firing order is 1-6-2-5-8-3-7-4. If you pulled the distributor to replace the internals, there is a possibility that you put it back in incorrectly. I suggest you watch Ross's video on setting up the dizzy and timing correctly:

Get the timing right and I'll bet this thing will fire off.

I agree, especially for a cold engine you really need to have tons of fuel going in to flood the engine. I suspect your timing is very late. If the spark occurs well into the downstroke, then not much will happen.

Did you put your ignition light on a few plugs, or just between the coil and distributor?

If you have correct spark and timing, try starting to crank with the remote then actuate the carb linkage by hand. You can see if there is fuel going in from the accelerator pump.

Have you checked the drive for the distributor, there is a small keyway that drives the distributor in the oil pump. Take of the cap and ensure the rotor is moving when the engine turns over, then try to turn the rotor button if it turns with the motor stationary check the rotor button to see if it turns on the shaft of the distributor. If the shaft turns with the motor still if will likely be the drive in the oil pump.
Regards Pepe Packard

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I don't think you need to rebuild it as much as clean it up. The Auto-Lite distributor, unlike my Delco, have food lubrication so not likely the bushing are worn too much. Replacing the points, condenser, rotor are probably all the new parts you'll need. Could check the vacuum advance to make sure it's okay as well.

Just catching up on this post, but a couple of additional thoughts:

- Make sure that your distributor breaker plate is grounded. This little wire will be located under the the distributor where it is impossible to see from above. It'll connect from a screw on the distributor to a mounting screw on your vacuum advance (at this on Autolite cars). My car is up with Ross, I'd otherwise take a picture. Like any good ground, use a 10ga wire (probably overkill, but bigger is better with grounds on 6v system). If this is missing or broken (or the connections are dirty), you will not get spark (or you will have weak spark). Unfortunately, this is not represented on the wiring diagram and is easy to overlook.

- Instead of using an in-line spark tester, pull a spark plug with it still connected to the wire. Holding the wire, ground the spark plug by placing the electrode on a head stud. With you ignition turned on, turn the engine over and watch for the quality of the spark. If it's faint or red, your spark is just weak. If it's blue-ish white, your spark is what it's supposed to be and you can probably eliminate spark as the issue. Weak spark can be any variety of things, but I think it's wise to start with your points/condenser. I think your coil is in play here, too.

- Carb rebuild, if you haven't rebuilt it or don't know its history, isn't a bad idea either. Make sure you're using compressed air to blow out the passages, and keep track of how it comes apart.