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Semantics aside, I believe the US use of the solenoid name is correct for both small and large versions which are both technically solenoids because the coil sets up a magnetic field which pulls a plunger thru a core on both models. Granted, there are differences in how parts of the plunger does mechanical work on the large one but they both still have plungers.

Maybe it is different in other places but here a relay is more typically thought of as an electromagnet with a solid core which then pulls a plate or armature with contacts attached to the core which stops and rests against it and not go thru it.

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An assembly to this purpose, containing a solenoid, is called a contactor. Otherwise you are correct in the difference in nomenclature vs. a relay.

Since contactors and relays serve the same electrical purpose, I sometimes don't care to differentiate them if it's obvious from context; as well, "contactor" is a more obscure term.

Contractors are often modular as well, with auxiliary contacts sometimes added for monitoring.

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Looks like about the right distance, turn it around.

Ya

That trans mount i marked mine, front

I would get that backwards

What annoys me is it tells you NOWHERE how to do that. It's an engine group part (5.1609) but it's not in the engine service section because it's part of the transmission; the transmission manual though just says to bolt it on.

I asked Ross and he said he just follows the paint lines. Good advice if there is any paint left to reference...

Now we know that the transmission bolt holes must be rear of the crossmember attaching studs. Therefore the orientation as shown in the parts book is WRONG. I believe I would have found that to use as a reference when assembling it, explaining why it is the way that it is.

packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/parts ... &PlateNumber=29&cat=20#resultanchor

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The front engine mounts also have the WRONG orientation on that part plate and the distributor too.

Yeah so of course I torqued those bolts to SPEC (70 ft lbs!!) when I assembled it originally, so they were insanely difficult to remove. Of course only when I was done did I realize I should have just unbolted the crossmember first. So I'll try that before installing them...

Got the rear window side trim caulked with a bunch of RTV. Hopefully will stop the pervasive water leaks in that area.

I swapped the transmission pan as well, another very annoying task to do under the car. Swapping then torqueing 20 bolts. I forgot to bring an extra gasket with me, so I used RTV. On a 56 pan you need to use this specific pattern. On a 55 the long "detour" at the center bottom of the pan is absent.

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Not a ton of progress this weekend, but I got the rear isolator properly installed and all the bolts torqued, then adjusted the throttle linkage. See the photos below (fish-eye lens) for the workspace I had to deal with! Can barely fit a wrench in there, nor a socket; the isolator, body, frame, and crossmember all get in the way no matter what you try to do.


Setting the linkage "by the book" is very confusing and error-prone due to the fact that there were many service letters that tweaked the process one way or another. I recently prepared a document (reviewed by Ross) that concisely gives all the info required to preform a correct adjustment on an otherwise correctly working transmission; it is attached. It took a good effort between cross-checking all the relevant letters and documentation (17 references listed!) as well as annotating the diagrams in what I hope is a most clear and helpful way. I would appreciate your feedback via PM (as to not derail my blog) but I would kindly suggest you at least read it when standing next to the linkage on the car. It has enough detail to be clear and complete on its own, but it will be more understandable when read next to the car, even if you are happy with the current adjustment.

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Spud.

I would of dropped the bracket.
.
That bracket is a pita to get in. Too.