Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

I have no idea what happened to my car It Runned perfectly fine then it just didn't anymore I was thinking is it bad gas pump but it can´t be becouse it feed fuel perfecly fine and When I crack the line open there is pressure of fuel inside then I was thinking is the carb clogged but it feels like my car gets too much fuel so it doesn´t run and what happens when I try to start it it starts but it shuts of immediately and When I gave gas from straight up bottle or pressed gas few times before start it just didn´t do nothing until I cranked to gas out from exhaust I tried to start it too with gas pedel on the floor too and it shot the flame out and now it start more poorly only with pedal on the floor

Flooding? Float needle sticking?

I don´t think so it feels like it Runs so rich it can´t starts but it doesn´t make eny sence becouse it runned with that mixture before and I tried 2 different carburators to it and both do same thing I even openned other one of them and everything seems fine

Timing

"Ran perfectly fine" except last year you had almost the exact same problem:packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=279937

I would pull the plugs to make sure they look OK and compression test at least a couple of cylinders. All of that should be fine, but it's worth it to check the plugs if the engine has ran rough before, as they can get fouled. Tip: for the #8 plug, crouch down so your forearm can go horizontal between the air duct and exhaust manifold.

Assuming they are OK or you clean them off, the problem has to be carburetion or timing, as you have already checked fuel. If it has ran fine intermittently, then the timing is probably OK for now. If it were off, it would consistently run bad. But you can check it with a feeler gauge (read the service manual for instructions).

You may want to use an inline spark tester (very inexpensive) on the coil while cranking, to confirm the ignition system is attempting to fire all cylinders. The light would flash at a constant frequency.

Assuming that is OK, I think you need to rebuild the carburetor. I suggest buying the kit from Chicago Carb. I think once it's rebuilt, the engine should run much better, then you can use a timing light to fine-tune the ignition system.

Timing chain problem?

I got it fixed there Came only 4-5Volts for the coil and the problem was That White thing back on the fire wall what makes your spark stronger on freezen weathers the yellow wire was lose and corroted same with other wore I cleaned them and now it works

The white thing on the firewall is a resistor that lowers the voltage after the engine has started as 12v-14v is too much for it. For startup it needs a hotter spark so it gets full power, then after it's started, the voltage is reduced through contacts in the starter solenoid, I believe. You'll have to check the wiring diagram available on this site to confirm.

That white thing on the firewall is a ballast resistor needed in most 12v systems to lower the voltage to the coil when the engine is running so coil and the points do not overheat. On Packards and many other brand cars, only when the engine is cranking is a straight 12v fed to the coil so the spark will be extra hot for an easier engine start. As soon as the engine starts and starter motor disengages the straight 12v is removed and the resistor then provides an approximately 8 or 9 volts to the coil to keep the engine running. Some brand cars use a specific length of a special type wire for connecting power to the coil instead of going thru a separate resistor and other brand cars have the resistor built into the coil housing.

A loose connection would cause intermittent issues and a constant 4 or 5 v to the coil would definitely cause running problems. Those ballast resistors can burn out or sometimes change value. A common burned out resistor symptom is the engine will start OK on the initial 12v but as soon as the key is released and starter motor quits so does the engine. A resistor that increases value and provides a lower voltage might give the same symptoms you experienced with the loose connection while one that might melt and short a few turns of the resistance wire together to lower the value will increase voltage so the coil or points could overheat and burn...

Thank you for the information How I tested it I skipper whole ingnition cylinder and wired the could straight from the battery It just started and runned perfectly exept it had few vacoom leaks so it runned with only the choke halfway closed then I tried to find where that voltage dropped and it was on ballast resistor and saw there in that corrodted conection litteä bit I glowing hot iron but I when I cleaned them And Changed the carburators bottom gasket it runs perfecly mostly 0 vibration and I even Drived it first time since 1997