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1/4-20.

think I paid 8 bucks,

Just Google..,

Chevy used them too

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I have 3 battery hold downs lying around and will gladly sell one. Good condition like Don's photo. I have one set of bolts, not for sale. The other vendors probably sell them or I can get you dimensions.

For the air cleaner support rod....one of the PAC regions sells reproductions of them. Motor City Packards. It is listed on this page, $20.

Couldn't find the battery hold down bolts

But here is the air cleaner rod.

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Battery hold down bolts are the first page of the electrical 😃

packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/parts ... &SearchValue=439384&ButtonLookup=Go

Found the battery hold down bracket inside the box with the air tube for the driver's side. Will have to find a source for the flexible duct for both sides. The rod for the carb turned out to be 7.5" long. I used threaded rod and luckily had a brass wing nut. Need to add transmission fluid at the minimum; and flush the system soon. The manual says to add "Packard Twin Ultramatic Transmission Fluid" or type A. AQ-AFT. not sure how that translate to modern fluids. Also, I cannot find any information on a transmission filter. The book says to clean the screen.
The interior picture shows the front seat all the way back. I am amazed at the leg room in the back. Still have a long laundry list of little details and three door panels to do, but I truly feel that I am close to that first drive.

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Ford's Type F is considered by many to be the closest to the old Packard Ultramatic Fluid type A but that is starting to get a bit dated so some of the modern combo fluids that sort of emmulate the type F fluid characteristics because of additives to increase grab will work too. If the old original cork clutch facings are in use the Type F or modern replacement is recommended but if a rebuild with newer GM type linings has been done then any modern Dexron or compatible fluid will work.

There is no changeable filter, just a very fine mesh screen located at the bottom of the valve body and positioned so the screen is almost touching the bottom of pan.




Merritt, Dwight Heinmuller, and probably other vendors have the correct fabric covered duct hose. Modern neoprene or vinyl types will work but the newer coverings are very glossy and look out of place.

Type F is not the closest to Type A; the closest is probably Dexron III. However the Type F helps prevent clutch slippage which is possible from the lethargic clutch engagement pressures that Packard used to try to get a smooth shift.

For this reason basically everyone uses Type F.

Don't break the push nut for the screen. Reminds me, I need to buy a 100 pack of new sometime...

Bo Davis (deceased) was the previous owner, and I am convinced he loved to leave me guessing. I first knew this when he had dissembled five fuel pumps (no two of the same type) down to the last screw and placed all the pieces in a large Ziploc, labeled Packard. Now I am onto the wipers. By the way another Ziploc labeled Packard.

Found an article on the vacuum lines and wiper switch here on Packard info; great help. Thank you, Pgh Ultramatic

I figured out how the base of the arm goes onto the mount. Accidently pulled on it, to realize the base of the arm is spring loaded. I have two different types of wiper blades with two ways of connecting to the arm. Been searching on the internet for a couple of hours trying to find an image of the arm connected to the wiper blade. Last thing I want to happen, is to witness the wiper blade slingshot off the arm followed by the arm leaving an etched arc of its travel in my windshield. One person at the local part store said that it simply hooks onto the pins of the blade and pressure will keep it there. Not buying it.
On the wiper switch, in the article, I noted a notation about travel of the switch to activate pump. Am I correct in assuming once the switch on the dash is reassembled that I would push the knob in to activate the wiper fluid? Don’t yet see on the switch hanging in the dash an electrical connection. Guessing it lies in the Ziploc.

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You are correct. Pushing the knob connects a Douglass or bullet connector at the end of the switch to ground. The terminal for that bullet connector is part of the washer loom. The washer pump solenoid has a fused feed on one side and when you want to activate the washer, pushing the knob connects the other side to ground. Solenoid energizes, vacuum is admitted to pump which sucks up a charge of water. When you let off the knob solenoid cuts vacuum and spring pushes the piston back down so water starts to squirt.

The pump has a water activated valve and if that and the co-ordinator are both functioning properly, water works the valve so vacuum is admitted to the co-ordinator and the wipers start to move. When water stops, the valve cuts vacuum to the co-ordinator and it starts to return to the home position. An air bleed screw is adjusted so the timing before the spring returns the co-ordinator piston to home position will allow wipers to continue to operate for a few sweeps after the water stops before piston reaches home and stops the wipers.