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Topic: 1927/28 Packard Phaeton TOP/BONNET

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526Packard

1927/28 Packard Phaeton TOP/BONNET

Just popping in

Hello everyone,
I'm looking for help rebuilding the top/bonnet of my 1927/28 Packard Phaeton.
I don't have a top, nor the metal rods to make it.
I've tried to get the plans, following the advice of some forum members, but either I can't find them or they don't work for my purpose.

I'd like a forum member to take photos of all the rods that make up the top. If possible, could they include some metric reference in the photo that will help me rebuild all the moving parts of the top.

Thank you all so much for reading this message.

Best regards

Jesus

Hola a todo el mundo,
Estoy buscando colaboración para rehacer la capota de mi Packard Phaeton 1927/28.
No tengo capota, ni las varillas de metal para hacerla.
He intentado conseguir los planos, siguiendo el consejo de algunos miembros del foro, pero o no los encuentran o no me valen para mi propósito.

Me gustaria que algún miembro del foro, me hiciera fotos de todas las varillas que conforman la capota. A ser posible que pongan en la foto alguna referencia métrica que me sirva para rehacer todas las partes móviles de la capota.

Mil gracias a todos por leer este mensaje.

Saludos

Jesús

Posted on: Yesterday 9:14

Karl

Re: 1927/28 Packard Phaeton TOP/BONNET

Home away from home

Hi Jesus
I've already responded to this topic via private message, but I don't have time to deal with it further. I hope you'll find answers to your questions and requests here in the forum. However, based on my own experience, I can't offer much hope that you'll find photos or measurements for the desired 1927/28 convertible top rods that would actually help you recreate this convertible top. Replicating a convertible top rod requires not only special craftsmanship—which I assume you have—but also special tools and machines for shaping and connecting the profile rods. Particular problems in reproducing this rod, however, lie in the technique of folding the individual rod sections. All parts must be assembled according to the principle of parallel displacement for the respective vehicle dimensions, so that all metal/wooden arches are in the intended position at the rear when the convertible top is folded. The first photo shows the rods of my 1924 Sport Phaeton exactly as they should NOT be. Someone simply guy shortened it so that the top can be placed on the windshield frame. The result shows that this top does not belong to my 1924 Sport Phaeton, but to a 1925/26 touring model. The idea of simply shortening now all the rear rods to lengthen the two front ones ….accordingly results in the top no longer folding... it remains half-open. The principle of parallel displacement is disrupted and no longer works. In addition, the bent ends of the individual rods must assume exactly the position in which they tension the top fabric and simultaneously "lock" themselves in this position through counterpressure. Even a 10 mm difference in length between the rods is enough for the top to not work. So I think... if you can't get original rods as a sample, it will be very, very difficult to reproduce the rods. I couldn't have found anyone here in Germany who would even take on this work and at a reasonable price…
For over two years, I searched the internet for photos and information to gather enough information about the individual designs of the various Packard models. Since I had already recreated several convertible top designs for different vehicles, I was only looking for the specific design features that I needed to consider when creating the basic design. My solution to the problem of the required length of the individual frame rods was to drill a hole every 10 mm in the center of a section of the rods, allowing me to move the bolts inch by inch to find the right position where all the rod sections fit together perfectly, as shown in the last photo. However, this meant that the frame actually had to be built twice. The drilled rods are merely examples. For my convertible top, I chose a slightly stronger profile into which I could also press-fit bronze bearing bushings.
This makes it easier to move the custom-made hinge pins. I designed the metal bows as a T-profile, with the upright section disappearing into a groove in the wooden bow above. Visually, this isn't a problem, as the inside of the wooden bows is already covered with the single-layer original fabric of the stronger convertible top fabric. This preserves the original appearance and prevents the wooden bows from sagging, which often occurs later. I'm adding a few more pictures that I gathered from the internet. There are also two of a convertible top from a 1927 Phaeton. I hope all this helps.

Karl

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