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The Clock arrived from Australia today:




Here is the bezel from New Zealand which I think will clean up:

Its a tad rusty:




So into evaorust it will go.

While that's soaking I will check the mechanical condition.




The insides are better than outside.

I cleaned the points, hosed everything down with some break cleaner, and gave a little bit of oil on the pivot points.

The winding solenoid works, but it doesn't unwind. After some checking and prodding, I found that the balance wheel spring is broken. So the wheel and the little toggle yolk piece, and tried it again.


Here is the link to video showing the clock running:

youtube.com/shorts/D3moyDmYad4?si=q5Fl8IgWoHvltswY

Without the balance wheel acting as the actually time keeper, it winds and unwinds without any metering. So the above video is not sped up. Every click you hear is a the winder solenoid.

Since the dial and face need to be repainted, each of them on the scanner to get them into the computer and then I was able to vector trace the scanned image to get digital cut files for a vinyl cutter. The plan is to use these as stencils for repainting both. So the dial will get the bone/tan/yellow color and the once cured lay the dial stencil over it with the numbers cut out. Then it will get sprayed the dark dash brown color.

The face is will be the same, but just in reverse colors.








I'll see if local Ace hardware can match the bone/tan/yellow color in enamel, from one of spare broken gauges I have.

Kevin,

In my gauge faceplate procedure I give the PPG formula for the match to faceplate brown:

35-37 Sr Gauge Rejuvenation Proc.pdf

packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb ... ?attachid=1746280685&post_id=285454

Dan

Dan, I believe it is the same as the junior super dark brown color dash structure color which I've already matched and have a PPG ShopLine JE Enamel formula for. So I should be all good there. But thanks for thinking of me!

I just have to match the bone/tan/yellow color. Since I need very little of that, a regular enamel will be fine. So I'm hoping I can get the local Ace guys can match it in a matte enamel, vs having to go through my local PPG auto paint dealer to have them create a match for me that also needs to have a matting agent added to it. But that being said, my guy there is a bit of a savant when it comes to matching things by eye.

Today it was redoing a repair to the left rear fender that was done in the 70s.

As some point in the far past it looks like a light of some kind was attached to the fender in that location. So two 1/4" holes and a center 1/2" hole. When someone tried to later patch those holes, the bashed in thar area far lower than the surrounding surface, and cut out a small patch of metal to sit over those three holes and then brazed those in. The filled in that entire bashed in area with bondo.

The metal was really now too stretched to level and the areas around the old holes are not contaminated with braze which seeps into the pours of the metal and makes welding to that area afterwards oh so fun.

So i cut a large area and welded in a new patch. Still need to do finish grinding and planishing.

Making that patch shape was fun, it has both concave and convex shape. So that required a shaping mallet on a leather sandbag and both the stretcher and shrinker.

That looks great and probably the best way to go on something like that. Many decades ago I took an auto body course at a community college and learned about metal shrinking which also works wonders are stretched steel. That's where I did most of the body work on my 1954 Patrician that gave it much primer here and there and its green front clip as I ultimately used the paint booth to paint my 1951 Henney-Packard combination after the minimal body work it needed that I had been doing simultaneously at home was completed just as the semester was over. I still have two gallons of the Mackinaw Grey lacquer that I had intended on using on the Patrician but never did!