Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Howard hit what I was thinking. The alternator doesn't do anything for starting. If the engine doesn't turn at all when then key is turned, then the starter motor is not getting any voltage. I've had that problem with bad connections on the battery cables (positive and negative). New cables solved it.

I've also had overheated coils and it kills the engine. Usually takes a few minutes for it to cool down enough to start the car again. But the engine will crank with a hot coil, it just doesn't run.

So if the engine doesn't crank at all I would investigate battery cables and connections to make sure everything is good. If the engine cranks then maybe coil, points, condenser, or as Howard said the overdrive could be part of it.

Quote:

Are you determining that the battery is "holding the charge" by measuring the voltage?
Load testing the battery will provide information on the amount of power the battery is capable of delivering.
If you don't have a load tester, many auto parts stores will test the battery for you.

The battery was in an unknown, but ok, condition to begin.
The alternator was not working, we don't know how long that was the case.
The car started (draining the battery) and drove 10 miles (draining the battery).
The car would not start. Insufficient battery power.
Jumper cables were attached thus providing a "fully" charged battery.
The car started using power for the other car's battery.
The car drove about a mile and a half (draining the battery) then quit.
The car would not start.
The jump and drive to failure cycle was repeated six more times.

To me, that sounds like you were driving using the battery, without it being charged, until the battery could no longer run the car. When jumped, the car was started using the external battery which also put a mile and a half worth of power into the battery before its was disconnected.

Load test the battery to see if it is still good. Or you could test your charged battery by trying to start the car. If it starts, go for a drive. Of course with your jumper car following. Try the round trip to work.

I had a case of a failed alternator, where I fully charged the known good battery and drove a four cylinder engined car 200 miles without incident.

Of course, getting the charging system working and checking for current drains would be next on the list.

A car battery can be too depleted or deteriorated to operate a pea bulb, and still show 12volts on a voltmeter with no load. Showing 12 volts at no load on a test meter is a long way from showing 10 volts with a 200 amp starter load applied.

You can buy a battery load tester at HF pretty cheaply. It simulates a starting load on a battery.