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Quote:

I think I know what you're talking about, do you have a pic?

Turbo or anyone else: The lock assembly froze completely and I could not open the door at all.

I clicked the inside and outside handles until the faulty spring finally went back into place and the door opened. Phew!

I have a printed copy of the Service Manual and I was able to remove the trim panel - no problem.

I removed all the screws holding the lock assembly in, but the window runway ( window channel?) is preventing the lock assembly from coming out of the hole, and dropping down as the manual shows. The manual says to remove the trim panel (ok), window stop (ok) and the rear runway retainer screw. The last one I can't figure out. Do I have to take the window out?

I can feel the spring right behind the star wheel (on the inside of the door) is loose or broken) and that is preventing the lock from working.

Any help? and if I get it out, the source for a new lock assembly or repair?

Believe the screw they are referring to is just below the 2 on the right runner in the first picture. An inside door pict (passenger side) showing the location in second pict.

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HH: Thanks for the picture. The screw must go into that bracket. I could not find it before, but now I will know where to look. If I remove the window stop and the screw, that would allow the lock assembly to drop down.

The spring that is broke or loose is at the very top right hand corner of the picture.

Thanks for the help.

Thanks to HH 's excellent picture, I got the lock assembly out. Any ideas on a replacement or getting mine fixed? ( I already checked out Max Merritt)

I hope I don't have to drive for the rest of the summer with a bungee cord holding my door closed. That would be alright if I had a Plymouth, or a Ford, but NOT IN A PACKARD!

I'm trying to remove the lower driver-side hinge so I can attempt to rebush it. I've removed the four hinge-to-door bolts, and also got the four #4 Phillips hinge-to-body screws out, but the hinge, she is not budging.

Should it pull straight back out at that point? Or is there something else that needs to be taken loose? I've tried to pry it loose, unsuccessfully, with a tire iron but I'm afraid I'll do more damage than good if I keep that up.

FWIW while I've got the trim panel out, I'm replacing the glass and window channels. We'll see how that works out!

Believe there is a 5th screw. Look inside the hinge in the rear sort of behind where the "hump" of the hinge is.

HH56, You were correct. Thanks. I had been trying to avoid removing the entire door, but had to finally do so in order to get behind the hinge and get to the last screw.

The door is off now, the hinge removed, and I'm trying to come up with a plan to make a new hinge pin. The original was not bushed at all.

Do you have a picture of the hinge? There are 2 kinds, the forged or cast hinges used on prewar cars and the hidden kind that are bent out of thick sheet steel.

The prewar kind need to be reamed oversize and an oversize pin used to take up wear.

The newer kind generally used from the 50s up, can be repaired with bushings and new pins even if they did not have bushings to start with.

This is the kind with 2 bearing surfaces about 2" apart and a pin that goes through. Often they were made with no bearing, the pin wore right on the steel. When the hole wears oval you can drill out the hole and press in a bushing.

There are 2 kinds, the forged or cast hinges used on prewar cars....

Just a clarifying note - the pre-war hinge pictured is neither cast nor forged but made of steel stampings, it is bushed and has a provision for lubrication. Picture from the 1934 Service Letters.

The prewar kind need to be reamed oversize and an oversize pin used to take up wear.

EDIT - Depends I suppose on year and whether Junior or Senior, but many pre-war seniors don't require reaming and oversize pins, just new bushings if the lubrication has been neglected.

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