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One thing you didn't mention is if you have the Treadlevac. If so, the gunk found is a bad sign and an indication it really needs to be thoroughly gone thru.

There are repro rebuild kits available but they don't have all the detail pieces for a complete job which some of the specialty people have manufactured for their own use. As others have mentioned on various threads, their car stopped at one corner but not the next. That's probably because there is only one rubber seal in that particular unit between working or not.

Joe, I noticed in your photos notes written on Packard Motor Car Company imprinted stationery. I have a similar note that was written to the previous owner of my 115C. It was from Wallace (Wally) Wamsley replying to an inquiry about a Carter carburetor and a new starter solenoid. Were your notes from Wally too? He died a few years ago. I believe he lived in San Diego. He was in the Packard parts business.

the notes are from David Moe --- owner before me was ordering parts from him is what I get out of it --------Quote:

the notes are from David Moe --- owner before me was ordering parts from him is what I get out of it

IIRC, some years ago that stationery was repro'd by a region or club. Think there was also small notepads and some blank business cards one could have imprinted.

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It is low on the firewall so I think that means yes I have the dreaded Treadlevac -- and yes they are going to be gone through completely --- i think the owner who had it before the lady I bought it from maintained it but the lady I bought it from husband died and it has been sitting -- there is some nasty gunk in there and I'm sure its all through the lines -- I love that the car is pretty original and I would like to keep it that way -- she will not be a trailer queen but she won't be driven 500 miles to a show either -- just give everybody room and good reflexes for the e-brake

Joe,

If you going to DA off the rust, and leave it in primer, then make sure you use an epoxy based 2-part primer. Most non-epoxy and rattle can primers actually absorb moisture which can make the rust come back if not top coated.

yes sir, thats what the body man said when I asked him about it -- we are using the 2 part and he is going to use the etching primer and seal it since I won't be able to paint it right for a while, just want to stop the rust --- thanks for the input because I really thought I would just do that myself and rattle can primer it --- never knew about the moisture absorbtion part of that old standard grey primer -- makes me wonder why everybody uses it ------

Here's the deal with rattle can primer. It worked okay when the paints were all lacquer. But with the catalyzed base coat/clear coats and single stage paints used today you really need to use a catalyzed primer. I still use rattle can primer for painting things like engine accessories where you are going to paint them with rattle can paint anyway. But if you are going to drop $200+ on a just the paint (which is typical paint prices today for just the paint, activator, and reducer), plus any body work labor, and the labor cost to spray the paint, and all the masking supplies, why would someone use $50 worth of cheapo rattle can primer under that. I know a lot of paint shops that will not paint a car where the someone has used that. Too much of a liability.

My favorite primer is Valspar DTM. (Direct To Metal). Basically this is a self etching catalyzed primer. It sands easy, and your can over reduce it and use it as a sealer. So a gallon of it goes along way. It's not cheap, but it really good.

Found a little gas leak, little transmission leak -- thats next on the list now, after we get done with the brakes -- both cyliders in the rear were completely frozen up -- those are new now, all shoes are back on --- won't get to talk to the paint and body man until Monday -- got it registered today though, and got personalized plates that read "55 PACK" LOL --- thought it was funny since thats all it says on the title PACK -- so its not a 6 pack, its not an 18 pack -- its a 55 PACK

Sanding the trunk -- just doing the trunk lid and the roof right now to stop the rust

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