Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

Owen D, Brian 51,Clipper, & JW

the carb is now back on..I have not connected the distributor adv tube..according to the book, it only kicks in at around 300 rpm.

Owen D...you know the car always seemed to be running so rich ..to the point where the fumes were actually buring my eyes. no matter what i did to the 'idling' jet. Float?? as one of the issues in your last post?? probably.

Clipper..I take it you are suggesting that I once again do a manual hand job the linkage of the carb and make sure the throat is open so i can see the accelerator pump is piss'in gas?? Would I be better off to bench test the carb. In other words take it back off, fill bowl with fuel and then manually work the linkages??

Brian51 I once again check the flow of current to the plug wire in # 1.

On the function of the fuel compensator when timing the engine back to specs..Would you belive its in my owners manual

The distributor is provided with a graduated advance arem called the compensator which permits a quick manual change from the standard timing to eliminate the 'pinging' of low octane gasolineThe distributor is provided with a graduated advance arem called the compensator which permits a quick manual change from the standard timing to eliminate the 'pinging' of low octane gasoline

As indicated...Im setting every thing back to a 'base line

dumb question" what does "UDC1" mean..it has to do with tdc
top dead center but what does the 'u' mean??

JW..your idea was great to view the flywheel..took off the inner fender and wheel...to check ignition timing..will get involved in that tommarrow

UDC = upper dead center, same as top dead center. UDC1 means cylinder #1 is at it's uppermost position.

Sanford, If the carb is on the car don't worry about bench testing the accelerator pump. Give her a whirl if the timing is set about right and see what happens. We are all waiting with bated breath!

Sanford,Hopefully Murphy has met his match.

Here is tonights analysis:

No Start.

Sanford III was over..Yup you got it Sanford and Son..lol

We both reviewed and did everything

Battery fine showing 6.3 volts still
Starter doing fine.

Sanford III held coil wire off the block ..crank it and it shot long nice blue /white spark also plug wire and plug on # 1 showed nice blue/white spark. So that test was done JW

I also set the distributor timing to flywheel for points to close 3 degrees before TDC at which point, I hand turned the distributor and locked it in, at the point where the points make contact at the above 3 degrees. allowable range is 2 1/2 degrees to 4 degrees per manual for contact before TDC. Number 1 firing postion on the distr. is at 8 o'clock. This was confirmed by putting the Mrs. wooden mixing spoon into cyc # 1 and watching it rise to the top(and guys..let's not even go there..what they don't know, won't hurt em)

We have new points, cap, condensor, rotor, new coil wire.
points set to .015 per manual

HOWEVER.

carb leaking all over...time to take off tommarrow and start disassembly, inspection and re assembly.

I did as instructed by Clipper and it was pissing gas. So I believe the Acelerator pump is working. at least.

Sanford III removed plugs 1 thru 4.and they were still dry

plug 5 and 6 had some degree of wetness.

Now Sanford III says 'Dad if the carb doesnt get the correct mix of gas and air she'll have a hard time starting if at all." antomization so to speak.

I'll try Clippers next move..drop some pure gas down the throat and then see if I get a 'Pop" If I do, then the problems lies with the carb and fuel supply. another project for Saturday..

I hand turned the distributor and locked it in, at the point where the points make contact at the above 3 degrees.

If I'm reading this correctly, you've set the timing incorrectly. The high tension voltage to fire the spark plug is produced when the points just open, not when they close. So go back, put #1 piston at 3 degrees BTDC and make sure it's on the compression stroke (both valves closed on the upstroke), rotate the distributor so the points are just about to open, and then make sure that the rotor is under the #1 spark plug wire.

Owen Dyn

Yes will verify this morning on that issue.

afterwards, I will once again turn my attention to the Carb.
WA-1 Carter model 477S, used on Packards 6's 1937 thur 1941
when the OEM Chandler Groves proved a nightmare. They went to a Carter WA1 359 S then to the 477s.

but anyways, Im now thinking that i re installed the metering rod assembly incorrectley.

I have a 1940 WA 1 Pontiac Carb. I opened the dust cover and looked at the set up.

when you move the linkage, the Accelerator piston mmoves down and the metering rod moves up. Both the metering rod and acceleraton piston are attached to the same lever.
thats for the Ponitac WA-1 ..A so called "see saw" effect.

see pic below. Pontiac the first two pics..packard the second two pics.

On the packard metering rod..im beggining to believe it should be under the cam lever pin..see pic. On the metering rod there is a weight with a spring inside it. It is my belief that the spring pushes the metering rod on the underside of the cam lever pin to keep tention..the same 'see saw' principle as the 40 pontiac WA-1 ..

Yours or any others thoughts. Perhaps some one who has a Carter on their 37-41 Packard six could remove the dust cover and advise us.

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Owen D...im a little dense this am as Ive been up since 4am trying to figure where in the _)*&()&() I went wrong..
we definately have two issues the timing and carb..


Let me go back and try and recap on adjusting the timing

having the flywheel at 3 degrees before TDC, it is my understanding that the points are fully open(,015) and voltage is being sent. Correct??

Why couldnt i just move the distributor manually and make sure the fibre is on the high point of the cam lobe and measure with a feeler that the points are open to spec of .015

unless i'm missing something.hmm

In a DC circuit an induction coil only induces a secondary voltage when the primary voltage is changing. The way the voltage to the coil is changed in the car system is to turn the voltage on and off via the points. That is a VERY simplified explanation.

Edited to correct my stupidity