Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

looking for a place in the DFW area that does acid dipping for frames, and car bodys, etc.

i need to get a set of rusty rims acid dipped so the tires will bead up right. beats hand cleaning for sure.

thanks,

Hank

Why not just take them and have them media blasted. Probably would be cheaper, faster, and then they would be paint ready.

Hank -

Saw the pix of your car as it is being disassembled (in your project blog), and it looks like a great project car - one with just surface rust, not the dreaded tin-worm.

However, I recommend AGAINST acid dipping because that removes good metal as well as rust.

Decades ago, there was a franchise called RediStrip, which promoted a non-destructive process. I beleive it was a combination of an alkali bath, but with an electrical current applied to "de-plate" the rust, leaving the good metal behind. There might not be a RediStrip franchisee near you these days, but I bet there is still some sort of service like that in the DFW area. Have you checked listings in Hemmings Motor News?

Otherwise, I've seen a rust-removing pad, similar to Scotchbrite, that was designed for larger angle sander/polishers that will wipe away the rust. However, that won't get into all the little nooks and crannies; you would have to use some sort of rust encapsulating product for those areas.

One of my Pats has a lot of surface rust on the roof, and I'm gonna try a brand of naval jelly that I found at Lowe's - looks better than the old goo that came in a pink bottle. I also saw some rust removing chemicals (Cap'n Lees?) demo'd at a swap meet that seemed to work well. After getting the worst of it, I'll go over the panel with the aforementioned rust-removing pad and sander (if needed).

Just my $0.02 worth.

thanks for the advise. i was apprehensive with the acid dipping after reading horror stories on the internet. so, i found a place called metal rehab that is near my house. they don't use the acid dipping. it is a unique process that is environmentally safe. they said that i a person could drink it and it wouldn't hurt them if they could stand the taste of it. it is mighty expensive, but will beat the heck out of sand and grinding away and it would be much quicker. they will do frames, bodies, doors, hoods, wheels, etc....and they will prime everything for you. based on the information i gave them they said it would be about 3500 to 5000 depending on how many dips it would take to get the paint off, which i don't think it would take much looking at the paint that is left now.

i am going to save my money up and have this done so i don't have to worry about rust at all.

their website is www.metalrehab.com

check them out, they show the process on there website, with many before and after shots.

i just thought it was cool that it wasn't acid, but something more friendly to the car and future paint that i have put on.

Hank

also, what is the dreaded Tin-worm? i have never heard that before. i have a couple of holes in the floor pan on the passenger's front side. and a couple in the trunk, but other than that it looks solid as can be. i am happy, but i am worried what it may look like under thet trim pieces on the car.....we will see.

later,

Hank

Ever pick up a really old book and find a lot of random, tiny holes in the paper stock? Those were caused by "bookworms" - actually not a worm, but insects that eat paper.

"Tin-Worm" is slang for holes in the sheet metal that break through due to the structural integrity of the metal being severely compromised as a by-product of rust formation. Put a sand blaster or acid to that kind of rust and you'll end up with gaping holes in the body. In northern climates where road crews use salt and/or (worse yet) calcium chloride, most daily drivers were rusted out beyond reasonable use in less than ten years. You'll also find this problem, to a lesser extent, with vehicles operated in coastal areas - due to saltwater.

Up here in "Pennsyltucky", I've found the fenders on these Packards badly perforated after removing the big die-cast moldings. The wraparound turnsignal and related trim on the Senior cars was also a haven for rust.

You Texans are blessed with a relatively dry climate. The few holes you found in the floor (which is actually quite minimal for a car over 50 years old) may require some surgery and welding, but I doubt that you'll find much trouble under the molding.

BTW, the bolt-on plate you referenced, in another post/thread, on the driver's side front floor is probably an access cover for the master cylinder, which was located under the floor for cars without power brakes.

very nice!! thanks for the explination. i understand now.

my passenger's side front floor board is a bit weak. it has a couple of holes in it that i found with the screwdriver while pocking a bit. found it when i heard, ccccrrrreeaaakkkk. it is very easy to push down on the floor boards in the front on both sides, the driver's is better, but do you think i should just replace the floor board or spot surgery it at a body shop?

all the metal around the windows is really good too, which i am glad as i have heard that can be a nightmare to fix and costly too.

yep, this car is an original TX car, sold at Hilburn motor co. in Sherman Tx, back in the day...never left TX far as i can tell. i am waiting on more history of the car from the person i bought it from.

any suggestions for a novice restorer are greatly appreciated

thanks again,

Hank