Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

how do you take off the chrome/stainless rain lip molding that is above the windows, at the edge of the roof of the car. they look like they are crimpped on....but is there a way to take them off without destroying them.

thanks for the help.

Hank

They are crimped. I was able to remove by VERY carefully starting at the front and prying the bottom out with a thin curved tool. I made mine out of 1/8 inch flat stock, sort of resembling a crow bar end, and ground to a thin edge. Once started, it went reasonably well and minimal damage which was able to be straightened. This was a Caribbean and don't remember exactly differences but think yours might be thinner. Unless you suspect a lot of rust under, it might be easier to leave on, polish and mask as necessary.

problem is the car is going to be dipped....so it will end up with bare metal under there, so i need to get it off to paint so no future rust happens.

i will try my little picks that came in my screwdriver set. i just wanted to make sure there weren't any clips behind it that i should be aware of. i was pretty sure it was just crimped on. thanks for the help!

Sounds like you're talking about the scalp moldings that cover the roof drip rails.

I don't think that it's so much that those moldings are "crimped" on, but if you saw the cross-section of the sheet metal rail, you'd see that it has a "bead" to the bottom of it - that the molding (being formed of stainless steel), sort of snaps over that. That's comparable to my experience with a '78 Chevy where I changed exterior colors and removed every piece of trim.

So, you have to work the molding off from under the drip rail. The question is how best to do that.

Decades ago, I'd read a tip (for other cars) that suggested use of a can piercer, but blunt the tip so it doesn't pierce anything and wrapping it with some duct tape to prevent digging into the molding. You use the hook of the piercer (that normally acts as a fulcrum against the seam of a can) to gently pry the inboard edge of the molding loose; the former "business end" of the opener (that normally pierces the can lid) now acts as a fulcrum. Once you get the scalp molding started in coming off, the process goes much easier the rest of the way down the rail.

It's hard to explain (in words) without a "tool" and a car to shwo you (in a photo), but I hope you can follow what I've tried to lay out.

However, I'm not sure how well that would work with the 1956 Series Senior cars that used the much taller (wider) scalp molding. One of the moldings on one of my '56 Pats has several dents from an ill-fated attempt at removal by some previous owner.

Howard gives sage advice about leaving that stainless on and polishing it. If it has aleady been dented/damaged by some previous owner then you have little choice. Patience is the paramount virtue here!

thanks guys, i appreciate it. i will tackle this another day when i have more patience...LOL

If the whole car is going to dip-stripped, I'd wanna remove the moldings - less chance of trapped chemicals cauisng any problem later.

All 55th Series models and 56th Series Juniors have narrow moldings that are typical of what has been used on many other cars for many years. Therefore, look for an old junker - preferably with a damaged molding - to practice on, first.

just wanted to let everyone know i got these trim pieces off without damage!! i used and 90 degree bent small pick....worked great and didn't damage it! ;0)