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JW, 3-M weatherstrip adhesive is available these days in black also.
Chuck, I strongly taking advantage of this; it hides much better against the black weatherstrip.

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I like the black 3M glue also. It isn't so obvious when you make a mistake.

Didn't find any 3m glue but am trying the local store variety. It's clear in color. First, I'm removing the old rubber and using POR-15 inside the channel for the trunk seal.
I got the trunk seal installed around 9pm. It's too dark to check on it but should be dry. I'll have a look in the morning. Also found my headlights flicker every 10 seconds or so. Are replacement switches available or can the relay be repaired?

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No relays used if stock but the headlight switch can be removed from dash and then taken apart carefully and cleaned.

Some have reported problems and failures with the dimmer switch and those are a standard item. You should be able to find a universal replacement at Napa or good parts store.

If the lights are going completely out and then back on in that 10 seconds then the circuit breaker is operating -- most likely due to a short. Also very common with that old cloth wire. Check carefully around any holes in sheetmetal the wires might pass through and points where they exit loom.

EDIT: Since you have been working around the trunk, also check carefully the tail light wiring. A short is very possible in that area--either from something hitting it in the corner near the lights or particularly in the area where it goes across the trunk floor to get to right side.

Agreed, your problem is much more likely a short than a bad switch, though the latter is certainly possible.

Do check for shorts, but there is a good chance that the circuit breaker has just gotten weak. I am finding this quite often now that the cars are over 50 years old! The one for your lights is mounted right on the back of the headlight switch and with a little fiddling can be changed without taking the switch out, which is rather much a pain on the bathtubs. You can buy a new 30 amp breaker at Napa for about $6 and screw it right on. Be sure to note the post labeled "BAT"--its the one that receives the wire.

The trunk seal came out good, so I did the back doors today. The only parts of seals that were still good were the hinge panel pieces.
Every other vehicle I've worked on, you had to change the headlight switch when the headlights flicker like that. Most recently, my 78 LTD needed one last year. I'll look into the breaker but no NAPA within driving range here.

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The trunk seal came out good, so I did the back doors today. The only parts of seals that were still good were the hinge panel pieces.
Every other vehicle I've worked on, you had to change the headlight switch when the headlights flicker like that. Most recently, my 78 LTD needed one last year. I'll look into the breaker but no NAPA within driving range here.

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Rubber does look good and should make a big difference.

Any auto parts store should have the breaker--autozone also does--just be sure to get the kind with threaded studs instead of the push in tab type. Believe they are all pretty close in size. The breaker and dimmer switch are both fairly cheap and even if not causing the problem today, eventually will and worth replacing.

Enjoying reading this blog, I really like bathtubs! I'm only about an hour N in Endicott NY, there's a great NAPA up here if you ever need something from one.