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(BELIeVE IT OR NOT.... i got to try it this morning. The Packard 5672 windshield will NOT fit a 57 Chevy 4 door sedan.

The 5672 windshield is 3/4" shorter vetrically than the opening of the Chevy. There is also significant curvature difference at the bottom curve at the corner.)

Could you check to see if the gasket from the Chevy fits the Packard windshield and body opening?
I've been trying to get my hands on a gasket, but most of my collector friends lost all of their old parts when Katrina hit. I am also trying to find a glass shop that is specializing in classics to see if they have a gasket in stock that I could try.

(HOWEVER, this doesnot rule out the possibility of other I'change. It ONLY rules out I'change between Packard sedan and 57 chevy 4 dr sedan. ALTHO the curvature misfit at the bottom corners is making it look less likely.)
I just find it hard to believe that Packard, with the way they used parts from other marques, would opt to design a windshield that was specific, at this point in their business life.
It may not be what we want to hear, but at least we can rule out an interchange for the 57 4 door...

Kudo's PackardV8 for trying this out.
John

i got everything running. only problem is i don't have spark to the spark plugs. the points are making spark, but it is not getting out to the spark plugs. i put a volt meter on the output of the coil and when i turn the car over it jumps all over the place, but stays around 1000 to 1800 to 1500 etc.. i am guessing this is volts? heck if i know. i am leading to suspect the coil is bad.

any thoughts.

oh and the coil i added to the x reference is no good. the Duralast C809 is labeled 6-V. i think Autozone has no idea what a packard is. LOL! obviously 6 volts wont work. mine is labeled as it should be, 12-V.

later,

Hank

I'm not able to check the Chevy gasket to see if it will fit the Packard opening. The Chevy body w/o windshield is up in town and the man who owns it could not find the chevy gasket.

Hank,
If I recall correctly, the coil output to the distributor should be in the neighborhood of 15 to 30 thousand volts. Most high performance ignition systems operate in the range of 50K volts. That's pretty hard to read with a handheld meter. I think I would first verify the wiring to make sure that the spark is being generated when the points open (btw, there should be very little spark at the points - If there is, that usually indicates a bad condensor), and that the polarity is correct. If the coil is producing spark then check the rotor. Easiest way to check coil spark is to remove the coil wire from the distributor cap and hold it next to the block while cranking the engine. If the spark jumps to the block, the coil has output. Some of the older rotors were built with a resistor in the flow path and that would sometimes fail. I'm not sure if the Packard had this or not, but it is another point of possible failure.
HTH,
John

From the Steele Rubber website:

Front Windshield Channel, $232 - p/n 30-0270-50 (All Models)
Rear Window Channel, $212 - p/n 30-0505-81 (1955: Super Clipper Panama, Custom Clipper Constellation, Four Hundred)

when i move the points back and forth myself i see a small spark. my dad says this is good. the resistor on the firewall, little white ceramic thing. it has power on both sides of it. the test lamp turns on with both sides of the resistor. it gets really hot, burn myself on it, but i left the ignition of for quite a while too. the coil is putting out around 1000 to 1800v. so if it is supposed to be 20 to 30000v then i would say the coil is bad. the distributer doesn't look bad from what i can tell. i just don't get spark out the spark plug wires.

thanks for all the help.

my dad says any 12v coil should work as long as it seem to be about the same size and demensions etc....any thoughts on that.

I agree with your dad that any coil should work, to some degree, especially just to get it running. But, the ingnition system usually is designed with a certain "balance" between the engine compression, plug type, fuel type, and coil discharge. As you can figure, a higher compression engine would need a stronger spark to ignite the fuel/air mixture, ergo a richer fuel/air mixture would also require a hotter spark.
Have you checked to see if you have the correct rotor in the distributor? If you are getting spark from the center of the coil, the problem could be in the cap or rotor.
I personally would perform the following checks in order:
1. Good battery
2. Points properly gapped and condenser connected
3. Coil properly wired
4. Insert long spark plug wire into center tap of coil
5. Insert spark plug (properly gapped) in other end of wire
6. Make sure spark plug is making contact with engine ground
7. Spin motor with starter

You should see spark at the plug gap, if not try holding wire close to ground while spinning motor. If still no spark, then I would consider the coil to be bad.

The above tests should take no more than 5 minutes, and I have found through years of experience that it is usually the little things that mess you up; such as reversed wiring, poor connection, etc. Bear in mind also that these recommendations are based on the fact that you do have the basic electrical system wired in correct polarity. The coil output is generated by a collasping magnet field around the secondary windings caused by the points opening and removing the flow of current from the primary windings. I don't recall exactly what will happen if the coil is wired backwards, but I do seem to remember a severely reduced output.
John

BigKev,
Thanks for the info on the gaskets. I'm still hoping the issue regarding the Tri 5 Chevy gaskets is valid since they are only about $40 each. Sure would leave a lot of $ to spend on other areas. ;^)
John

ITS ALLLLLIVVVVEEE>>>>>>ITTTSSS ALLLLIVVVVEEEEE

yes you read right, after not running for nearly 25 years it busted off today. i couldn't keep it running long as the fuel pump is not working, so i just had to pour gas in the top of the carb. it would run in bursts for about 8 seconds or so. it ran pretty darn smooth i would say.

i did a compression test on the right hand side of the motor all about 140 except one that was 155. so alittle worn, but not bad. i am guess they should be up around 165 to 180 new. i didn't do the other side, i forgot when i was checking for spark one last time. apparently i did have spark, i just forgot to ground the spark plug to something metal when i did it. they all sparked fine, obviously since it runs ;0) what is a good compression on this motor?

anyways, just wanted to share the good news. i will do a compression test on the left side eventually. i am so giddy right now you can't hardly wipe the grin off my face!!



the generator dummy light stayed lite when it was running, so i am guessing it isn't charging at all. guess i will ahve to get that rebuilt. oh well.

WEEEEEEEEEEE like a little kid again!

Hank

alittle bit of an update. after getting the nursery all together for the V generation that is comming...that's right is a BOY! Henry Lee Greene V ;0)

i took off the passenger's door tonight and spent some time with my grandpa in spirit. i also go the control body off the transmission and worked on the selection pin that was stuck. got it moving again, but the spring loaded pins that help hold the selection pin in each gear had to be pressed out too. one side was stuck solid. then i had to get the cups on the ends to stay and i had to press the aluminum to get it to grab the cups so the springs wouldn't fly out. don't know how well i did, seems to be holding good, but i will get my dad to look at it. i have been studying the Ultramatic dissassembly instructions, so i may try to clean this thing up myself, don't know yet. i certainly can't afford the one i was going to buy from Bob Aller now, baby took that over so far.

i am getting ever closer to getting the body off the frame too.

the solenoids on the suspension worked, but one of them wouldn't. i took the inspection band off the electric motor and it was pretty nasty in there, but when i would trigger the suspension manuall the motor tried to turn one direction, but wouldn't go the other and the solenoid for that "no go" way would not click like the other. i am guess either the solenoid needs to be serviced or the suspension is so crudded with mud and dirt it wouldn't budge. ended up blowing the fuse comming from the starter and i stopped there.

that's about it, just thought i would let you guys know that even with the baby comming i am still try my best to no neglect the car.

later guys,

Hank