Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

PackardV8
(pos. or neg. ground does not effect the starter.)
I'm not positive, but I believe there should be no negative impact on the solenoid, however reversing polarity on the starter may have an impact on the direction it spins.

(What is an "EZ 21" wiring harness????)
As MrPushbutton stated, EZ21 is a universal wiring harness system used mostly by streetrodders. It has the advantage of additional circuits and the newer mini fuses.

(buy some wire and use the old loom as a pattern for the new loom. The only issue is terminals for places like the headlite sw., lighter stoplite sw. etc. I don't know where to get those terminals.)
My first impulse was to build a new harness by hand, since I have done this several times in the past, However, the current value of copper has driven the cost of primary wire up so high, that it is more cost effective to purchase a premade universal harness. Plus, most of the new universal harnesses are made using crosslinked wire which is easier to work with, is higher heat resistant, and lasts much longer.

BH
(Mind you this wrapping tape is for harnesses that had a vinyl covering. Harnesses in vehicles from earlier years used a fabric covering; some even had a fabric loom that was woven around the harness.)
I've been in the same boat with tape wrapped harnesses. My '55 does have the tape wrapped harness, and I would probably either reuse it if it was in better shape, or hand build a new one if copper was cheaper. But as I said earlier, I'm building a driver and want to add more options and reliability. I may use some of the split loom, or a combination of harness tape and heatshrink. One thing I learned is that electrical tape gets sticky really fast. There used to be a fiber based product called "Friction Tape" that relied on stretching the tape to activate a small quantity of adhesive, then wrapping it over itself for adhesion. This worked really well since it would stick to itself, but not to the actual wires. Unfortunately, it's pretty much impossible to find this stuff anymore, and it wouldn't look very good anyway since it was a sickly dark grey color with a matte fabric finish.

HH56
(A lot of cars accidentally had their batteries reversed with no ill effects on anything. The only thing I would think might warrant caution is if something like compensator switch or radio components have been modified or replaced with some of the modern solid state conversions some clubs are offering.)
I was more concerned about the instruments, radio, and torsion control system, and was hoping that someone had already run into the reversed battery issue and had some firsthand knowledge.

Thanks to all for the info, and please keep it coming. Although I've been working on cars since I was a teen, and am 60 now, there are always things to learn.
John

The torsion level box has two relays inside that when pulled in via the time delay circut send a GROUND out to the solenoids in order to pull them in and feed juice to the leveling motor until its time not to. The relays are constructed in such a way that they are intergal to the construction of the chassis of the box--it is not possible to reverse their function as they are physically constructed to only go to ground. It's not that big of a deal, you just gut the two OE relays out, get another set of small 12V relays that can handle the current draw and wire them to send out a 12V hot signal to the solenoids

As far as the directionality of the T-L motor itself, I didn't have a problem on the car I fixed. The motor is just a bi-directional motor made from a generator housing. If by chance you have a situation where it is turning the opposite direction than needed just reverse the feed wires on the T-L motor, or to the solenoids.

Where is the TL box located? Unfortunately, the underside of my car is not readily accessible at this time (too much stuff stacked around it), so I'm not able to crawl underneath to check. If I can "pinpoint" the location, I can then clear an access lane to be able to get the box removed. Thanks for the info on the TL motor. The wiring diagram really didn't tell much and the photo in the manual resembled a generator, but I wasn't sure.
I think I'm going to go with the universal harness and convert over to 12V negative ground, so as to avoid problems with future upgrades.
Thanks again for the info and I know I'll have many more questions before this project is complete.
John

Box is approx under the steering wheel or edge of front seat and about 1/3 distance between left frame rail and center of car. It's connected to L. long torsion bar by a thin bar link & levers. In 55 the limit switches are in a slightly smaller box actuated by the short transverse bar in almost the same front-back plane but more toward center of car. Here's a pict or 2 to confuse the issue further.

Attach file:

---

  (17.69 KB)


  (30.17 KB)

Since you stated that authenticity was not a primary concern
I would opt for the solid state conversion for the T/L box.
cost = $85 the last time I looked. The unit is available thru a vendor that advertizes in the CNB.

Thanks for that info. I'll have to look into that conversion. I really didn't know that was available.
John

The solid state conversion box still sends out a ground to engage the leveling solenoids, the reverse of what you now need, so I don't think that will help. Perhaps the guy doing the solid state conversion can make up a special-er for you. I haven't see one, but I think all they are doing is replacing the mechanical/thermal time delay gizzie with a 555 timer chip circuit.

OROR


You could use the new solid state box and switch the solenoids (which are under the car, near the leveling motor ) to regular Ford-type solenoids that ground through the chassis and are fed a hot (+12V) signal to engage.
You could do that. And using Ford parts usually makes the non-original crowd happy.

I am having a difficult time trying to fathom why there should be any change required for the T/L box whether Positive or Negative ground? I believe it will still function properly regardless of ground. I will say you MAY have to reverse the wires on the motor itself, but doubt that also. In short there are only a few minor changes when going from POS to NEG ground. The starter will still function properly. None of the light bulbs give a damn and someone reported the radio will work fine also. Can someone who has actually done this conversion comment on it??

For one of my 55 400s, I had a generator shop install an alternator and reverse polarity of the car from positive ground to negative. The starter spins the same way. The radio (with the old vibrator) worked, and the T/L still functioned properly. The amp meter shows discharge instead of charge with the engine running (I have yet to get under the dash to change those wires). He changed the connections to the coil to compensate for the polarity change, but I don't know exactly what was changed. The gentlemen retired, so I can't ask him exactly what he did.

He commented at the time that the change probably wasn't required, but apparently others making the conversion did it that way so he would, too.

If you get an electronic converter (vibrator replacement),
definitely buy one for the polarity you are using. You are guaranteed to blow it otherwise.

I'm installing a Vintage air conditioner. Vintage says definitely to use negative ground or their electronic stuff won't work. Darned if I know what "electronic" stuff is in an air conditioner. It occurs to me that maybe the salesman didn't know what he was talking about after all. Or maybe their blower motors reverse if the polarity is reversed.

Good luck!



Bernardi