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It is neither the 1195th of all cars, nor even the 1195th model 200, but the 1195th model 2492.

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I do believe my 1950 288 has hydraulic lifters, i'll go out later and see when i get home. It always ran super smooth and i never did any adjustments.

I still have dan yocum's 327 that i was going to put in, but now with both motors on the floor, i'm considering cleaning the 288 and putting it back in because i KNOW it runs great, the 327 i was just told it runs well. I believe it's a 9 main hydraulic as well.

Thanks Owen for clearing that up for me.

Just a suggestion. When I want to do what you are doing, I go to the hardware store and get some corks to plug the holes. They come in various sizes up to 3" or so. There are also plastic plugs in the plumbing department.

Great tip Rusty...I didn't even think of cork. I was going to buy one of those engine hole cover kits from Eastwood, but never got around to it.

Like a lot of things on this car, I work on it when the opportunity comes along, sometimes leaving me very little prep time. That's why I take a lot of pics because I get so into tearing into things, I don't think down the road when it has to go back together again! Paper towel was probably a bad choice because the oil may make it break apart when I go to remove it.

10-11-10

Went to the local tractor supply store and stared at the paint for 1/2 an hour trying to make a decision on what I should do. I saw some of the Massey Ferguson paint discussed in this thread Generic Equivalent to Packard Gray Engine Paint but it was for tractor restoration, and not for high heat like engine paint. I asked the guy at the store and he said I needed engine paint because of the heat so I decided not to try it. The only other options were "new Ford engine paint" and aluminum. The Ford was way too dark so I bought 1 can of the aluminum. On the can top, it doesn't look too much like aluminum, but sometimes those tops can be deceiving as to the real color. I'm hoping it is more a light gray and not too much bling. We shall see...

Got the engine primed (at least the side I've been working on. Gave it a quick shot of brake cleaner to make sure everything was as clean as I could get it.

Next I applied some masking, hillbilly style. I think it came out pretty good. Can't say you don't see a difference now! I wasn't too picky about masking because most of the stuff in there will be repainted at some point. I am regretting not removing the throttle linkage on the block though. I really have no excuse for not removing it except I'm not sure how dependent it is on the clothespin glued to the firewall.

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On a side note...after the paint was dry, I went and looked at that date on the trans again. I really thought it was an 8, but now I think it is a 3. I scraped at it with my finger and the left side of the 8 doesn't feel like it is there, even though it looked like an 8 after wire brushing. That means my trans is 3-5-51, which is great because it is near the date of the engine.

It could also mean that the place that was supposed to swap my trans with a rebuilt one may have just sent mine right back to me. The question is did they rebuild it first or just scam me? Who knows. I really need to stop dwelling on this! What's done is done.

51Packard, I think you can safely use a good quality paint for the engine, don't need high temperature engine paint. Manifolds will require special paint, but the rest can be done with regular rattle can paint with good results. Personally, I like the Krylon products.

(o{i}o)

Really JW? Have you done it before? That would be great! I'm sure I could find a nice, regular gray then. Right now, I have a high temp primer (good for up to 500 degrees) on the engine from Dupli-Color. I can stop tonight and pick up a Krylon paint to go over it. I don't think the two would be incompatible as long as I stick with enamel.

I've always bought the correct engine enamel from one of the Packard vendors, but primarily to get the correct color. They are good, durable paints but not truly high-temp enamels, nor is one needed as nothing on the engine block itself gets much warmer than the temperature of the coolant, 220-240 max and more generally 180 or so. So if you can find the correct color in a good quality regular enamel, it should be just fine.

Exception to the above is the exhaust manifold where you must use a high temperature enamel if you wish to paint it. I very much like Eastwood's "stainless steel" high temp exhaust manifold paint, after it's seen heat a few times is dulls down to a very good approximation of freshly cast iron.