Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Quote:

I love this right after i separated my two manifolds to sandblast and coat them differently...do the three bolts that hold them together not get the manifolds lined up? I could see it being a pain and needing to do it with a straight edge, but machining!? Ugh.

Edit: Maybe leave the three bolts that hold the manifold together slightly loose, then tighten the manifolds to the block, then tighten those?

"Maybe leave the three bolts that hold the manifold together slightly loose, then tighten the manifolds to the block, then tighten those?"

Yes. That is standard procedure for any engine that has the intake and exh manifolds bolted together.

Not likely to get any metal fragments into the water jacket since the fracture or hole is probably very small or most likely a crack that will eventually grow larger..

However, coat the end of the drill bit with grease. It's a rather slow process to drill about an 1/8 inch at a time and then clean off the end of the drill bit and recoat with more grease. The grease will hold most if not all of the metal fragements. same thing for the tap if it needs to be tapped.

Using sealer on the studs or bolts that are near exh. ports or directly contacting the exh manifold will probably not hold up very well due to the exh heat. Try it anyway.

Before drilling out to the next larger size be aware that the holes or reliefs of the manifold mite have to enlarged for the larger diameter bolt or stud. Mite not be enuf 'meat' there to enlarge????

Keith using sealer on the waterjacket thru studs is pretty much S.O.P. The block makes a great heat sink. If you dont you will eventually be weeping/leaking coolant at those stud locations.

I'm a bit worried that he mite have a bigger problem than just stripped threads. Maybe it's cracked. As for the sealer, i suppose it's worth a try. There is just not much that will hold up to direct transfer of exhaust heat. Intake bolts, head bolts, then yes sealer SOP.

The stud is screwed into the block and only the external end of the stud is in contact with the external ear on the exhaust manifold. Most of of the studs are actually holding two ears in place, one exhaust and one intake due to the siamesed nature of the straight eight manifold.

So none of the studs are in the direct path of exhaust gas.

PackardV8 Said:
Quote:


Actually it must be a full-bore hole. The coolant "glugged" out of the engine. I lost about 2.5 gallons on 35-45 seconds.
It's pretty comical in retrospect. "What the? What is that? Coolant? What Do I do? Quick put it back in!, Crap I'm not going to get it in time! Quick get the oil drain pan! Dang that's fillin' up fast! What else do I have around here?" Basically the next two hours were pushing the 300 out of he garage, and cleaning up the mess.

I Hit everything with PB Blaster and will take a closer look in the morning.

Another question. By opening up the hole is there any danger of hitting something else? Oil? I don't know how close together everything is in that area.

On the subject of the studs stripping out, my block has one oversized stud holding the manifolds on. Also one of the studs screwed out of the block when I was removing the manifold, and there was alot of rust corrosion on the end of the stud. Water seeps in from the jacket, and corrodes the threads. Another reason to make sure the water jacket studs have a good sealer on them.

Dave the you are only enlarge the hole a little bit, so there should be no danger. Just don't go deeper that required. You have to figure out if you are simply going to go to the next size up stud, or helicoil the hole to take the same size stud.

What kind of locking device is used on the retaining nuts???