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The experience with no compression reminds me of my 1935 Diamond T truck. This is an original truck with 50,000 miles. It supposedly "ran when parked." The former owner said he started it up every once in a while and then one day it would no longer start so he did not try again. The truck was stored outdoors in the dry desert for years.
When I got the truck I expected to dump some light oil in the cylinders and start it up. After putting in the oil I turned the engine with a crank handle and it spun over very freely (WAY TOO FREELY!). I checked the compression and it was near zero on every cylinder, just like the Packard being discussed. After I took off the head I found every valve stuck open.
Apparently it is possible for all valves to stick if the car is sitting for a long time. Maybe this is a combination of solidifying old oil turning to glue with time. Maybe some light corrosion on the valve stems helps too.
I suggest taking the valve cover off and seeing if the valves are moving up and down. Also you need to be sure they are totally closing, not just moving a little. Check the valve lash when the valves are in the closed position. If they are stuck perhaps a heavy dose of Kroil could loosen things up. (On my Diamond T I overhauled the engine).

Maybe if the valves were very rough and very bad condition, when it rolled over the first time, the valves that weren't stuck up were pushed up and stayed there. But that would be one heck of an exception to how things usually go. Can't wait to see what the culprit behind this mystery is.

Or stayed up long enough for the stems to rust? I agree it's hard to visualize a situation where so many valves got stuck open when only a few are open each time the engine is shut off. Perhaps the repetition of starting and then sitting for long periods did just as Cortcomp suggests.

If those compression readings were taken with the choke and throttle valves open, surely there is no way that engine will ever start as it sits.

To determine stuck valves:

Rig up a rubber hose on the end of a fitting that will screw into a spark plug hole. Blow air thru the hose to see if air comes out of the exhaust or the carb. Turn the engine slowly 2 complete revolutions for each cylinder test.

There should be about 1/2 turn (out of 2wo full turns) of the engine crank for which no air comes thru anything.

I prefer to blow smoke myself but just air will wotk fine too.

If there are holes in the pistons then a lot of air will come out of the road draft tube regardless of where the crank is positioned by turning.

That;s the basic idea. There are detail short cuts to this i won't enumerate rite now.

Taking the valve covers off will tell all if he can have someone rotate it while he watches.

Still, almost all cylinders having no compression due to stuck valves or holes in the pistons is almost unheard of.

THe low compression is an issue yes. 1 or even 2 stuck EXHAUST valves won't keep an 8 cylinder from starting and running albeit poorly. But all it takes is just ONE INTAKE valve to hang open 10% or more and the best of engines won't hardly start let alone run worth a rats flat ass if it does start.

I've had V8's and some 6's where there were as many as 5 valves stuck very hard.

Remove the spark plugs. I assume they're 14mm and not the tiny 10mm. Look down into the spak plug hole. Most flat head engines run the spark plug somewhat directly over the exh valve. If an exh valve is hanging open then use a brass drift and a small hammer to JUDICOUSLY drive the valve down a little ata time while working it back up by cranking the engine crank back and forth.

DO not use alot of force. Work at it slowly and get the valve moving a little at a time. Keep snake oil on it.

THis mite save a lot of work and gaskets. If the intakes a re stuck then u're stuck.

Ok.... More time on the Packard tonight. First off, got a gallon of WD-40 and a can of PB blaster. Pulled all the plugs and filled cylinders with WD, pulled the access panel in the right wheelwell, pulled the fuel pump (to get the lifter cover to clear) and pulled the lifter covers...

Quite suprised to see that the #2 intake valve stem was broken. about 3/8" of the valve stem is still in the lifter, The break is not new, I think that may have been the "Lifter rattle" my dad spoke of. The valve is also stuck open. It Has about a 1/4" gap between the broken piece and the stem when the lifter comes down.

About 2 hours of WD-40 soak and rotating by hand yielded the following compression results.
#1 30psi (visibly leaked down on the gauge)
#2 20psi (broken intake valve)
#3 50psi (visibly leaked down on the gauge)
#4 45psi (visibly leaked down on the gauge)
#5 100psi
#6 110psi
#7 140psi
#8 90psi

Obviously I intend to re-apply and rotate again tomorrow, then check compression again. Seems to be making a dramatic difference though. Looks like the #1, 2, 3, 4, and maybe 8 are still not sealing properly. But a helluva lot of difference for just some WD-40.

On that note, anyone know of a 288 or 327 in decent running condition in the mid-west for sale? doesn't need to be re-built or anything, just run well. Really want to get this car on the road. It isn't doing anybody any good sitting in my garage! I think if I buy a runner, I can tinker with the rebuild at my own pace while still enjoying the car.

That's rough news on the broken valve, but at least it's starting to make sense. I have a 288 in NEOhio that i'll probably be selling, as soon as i fire up the 327 that's going in its place and make sure no knocks, etc. (about 2 weeks away) It ran great, no smoke, hydraulic lifters, smooth as a sewing machine. Mine is from a 50 though so i don't think it'd have the side mount holes that you'd need.


After having these motors in and out though, it's a lot of work vs just replacing some valves. Front end comes apart because it's scary tryng to lift it OUT instead of FORWARD. There's always some little part or difference that you don't take into account that you have to adjust for. Sure there's 100 head bolts, but after you get the manifold assembly and head off, everything is a lot easier to work on. You can drop the head at a machine shop for cheap and they'll check that it's flat and for cracks...meanwhile you can clean up the valves and their seats, lifters, etc.

The leak down cylinders are likely from the valves not seating all the way. I wouldn't worry about worn or stuck rings until the valvetrain was all good and i could test some more.

yeah, that's kind of where I was at. I'm thinking about just replacing that valve, re-lapping them all in, and seeing if that will work.

Is it common for 288's and 327's to have hydraulic lifters? Was that like a dealer addition?
My block ID is L301055, by the serial # chart, it should be a 53 327 5 main with solid lifters. But they definately look to by Hydraulic, and my head is clearly stamped 288. I wonder if someone changed it to up the compression?

I think my next step is going to be to remove the head, intake and exhaust manifolds. Pull all the valves, check for "wobble" in the guides. New umbrella seals, re-lap the valves, replace the broken valve, and see how it runs

Just curious, but how to you adjust the valve lash on one of these? I'm used to OHV, rockers, and pushrods.