Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

As noted in earlier posts, I am not very mechanical, but I would like to learn some basics. Having every single thing done by someone else is expensive.

I'd like to replace my generator with an alternator in preparation for adding a/c. I see this described as simple, and the generator is accessible. I have a 3/8 socket set and a set of combination wrenches as well as screwdrivers, a VOM and a reasonable toolbox.

Is it reasonable to ask someone to walk me through this, or is it best left to a mechanic?

I also want to get my door locks to a locksmith so I can reliably lock the doors. This looks straightforward in the manual, although the spring clips may need to be replaced. Is this something a beginner should/could do, or are there probable complications that I can't see coming?

I'd really appreciate advice on these projects; sorry to bother with what is probably trivial stuff to all the experts here.

Hi Patgreen,

May I ask what area of Chicago do you live in?

I could probably swing by some weekend and give you a hand if you like.

Tom

For the door locks, try squirting in some graphite based lubricant, available at NAPA or the like. It should loosen the lock up and make it easy to manipulate! Getting a locksmith is like paying a Dr. for a house call, or even worse, a plumber!!

Pat, replacing an Generator with an alternator is not hard. The two most important thinks are fabbing up a new bottom bracket, as the alternator will NOT work with the generator bracket, and getting the alignment correct so the alternator pulley is in alignment with the crank and water-pump pulleys.

Check my project blog as it shows the bottom bracket I made up, and how I was able to resuse the top bracket with a spacer to get the correct pulley alignment.

Patgreen

By your own admission of lacking some mechanical expertise i am assuming that u don;'t have a lot of "junk parts" laying around the shop or the yard to use as modelingor mock up.

Quite often many of us will refer to a process as "easy" depending on resources available to us. Resources that can vary from person to person.

Example: is that i have at least 3 dozen alternator brackets, AC brackets and PS pump brackets laying around the yard here. So i just go gather them and seach for one of 'best fit' and then cut and grind it from there.

ANother example is the old 6v VS 12v conversion debate that rages on foreever. Quite often it depends on resources available to each individual person. Some people have relatively large stock piles of NOS or NORS or even just good used 6V parts. Others do not. Conversio mite even depend on the vehicle in question and the parts availability from suppliers/swap meets or intended use of the vehicle.

THose are only examples intended to explain why there are often debates over variations of each individual owners decisions and why sometimes we refer to some processes as "easy". Mechanical apptitude aside, determineing WHAT parts to use or how to fabricate them is often a major challenge for everyone.

The mechanical end of the learning curve is rather fast. Have at it. Keep us posted.

In view of my last post. WHy do u want to convert to alternator?????? MAYBE it would be easier and cheaper to rebuild your current generator. Maybe NOT!! I don;t know. So why do u plan a conversion???? Decisions are always in the details.

I think he said why he wanted to convert:
Quote:

Many of us have AC on our cars and a generator with no problems. I have a 56 with AC, dual heaters for winter and the car idles quite often. No problems. Do a lot of nite driving too.

In view of my last post. WHy do u want to convert to alternator?????? MAYBE it would be easier and cheaper to rebuild your current generator. Maybe NOT!! I don;t know. So why do u plan a conversion???? Decisions are always in the details.

I have heard this argument/discussion before, of course. The problem for me is that in talking to the antique air people, the current draw for a running air conditioner is 20-25 amps. As I understand it, the generator is 35 amps. Add in idling time and possibly the addition of a cooling fan (electric, presumably what 5-10 amps?) turn on the headlights, run the radio and where are we?

It simply seems prudent to go the alternator route.

As to spares...I have none. No extra ironmongery of any kind sitting around. No welder or milling, either. Got a few woodworking tools, but don't see that helping.....

RE the locks: One is keyed incorrectly; the other is very difficult to open. Don't particularly want to be locked out, but would like to able to lock the doors on occasion.

Hi- On the alternator-I agree with updating. I used a one wire Gm, used for maybe the last 10 yrs on chevys for example. Avail in different amp ratings and has internal regulator so you wont need your current regulator. Wiring diagrams should be available in some of the street rod websites, its simple to wire. I think I used original mounting brackets with a different belt. This was 10 yrs ago, I could be wrong. I changed to negative ground since mine is a 55, at the same time. Make sure the pulleys are in alignment. If fabrication is needed after you get the alt, and take a look at it, then get help.
With the ac you may need some help. I would use a shop that does street rods etc because they can fab if needed. I used Vintage air and some commercially available brackets. The shop will have access to them. You really have to be able to visualize to do this kind of fitting work. . Vintage Air has several sizes of the units that fit under the dash, you can get measurements from their catalog. Mine was the medium or large, but again, this was 10 years ago, products may be different now. Mine fits way up under dash and steals some of the glove box space. It comes with heat and air. They have duct opening vents available which happen to be the exact size of the Packard ashtrays in the dash.
You can buy their condenser, or have the shop buy a factory replacement condenser that is larger from some other car. They will have a size chart from which they can do this. The larger the condenser, the better the cooling and cost will be the same or less.
I would suggest that you run the trans cooling lines thru a separate cooler, preferably the larger of the two that B&M transmissions offers. You can get it from an aftermarket eqpt catalog such as Summit Racing and others. B&M has a special design that limits the fluid cooling when cold in order to help the trans fluid warm up quicker. The reason for a cooler is that the ac will put a strain on the cooling system, and running the trans fluid thru the hot original radiator makes no sense and adds heat to the radiator which it doesn't need with the added load of the ac. Plus this will definitely save your trans. Heat really kills these transmissions.
I used a large electric cooling fan in front of the radiator with a thermostadt sensor that sticks between the radiator fins. . I would suggest some kind of sheetmetal fabricated fan shroud, with half of the fan depth inside the shroud. I found a plastic one from a 70s car that used a large size fan, in a swap meet. I think its easier to make one. You may look at some 60s cars, such as 58-64 chevs. They are common. If you meet some people who have parts around, you can take your car an check it out. Or ask whoever may be doing the install. This will help at low speeds. Higher pressure Radiator caps will help, but be very careful as you have an old radiator that does not need more pressure. If you are considering one of those stainless steel fans, they are great but the center diameter is not the same as the stub on the Packard water pump. So, you would need to have the fan hole precisely machined. This does not mean to ream it with a grinder as it will never be right. The ac will make you look forward to driving the car. I would think that labor for the install would be in the $500 to 800 range, and you can price the rest, maybe 700 to 800 for parts. Shop around. Try to meet some guys who work on altered cars or street rods. Car shows are a great place to ask around.
Hope this helps.
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