Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

I'd think the car would nose up some, and feel "lighter" or "touchy" up front. Maybe you would have to remove a half or quarter coil on the fronts?

When i'm stuffing a motor where it shouldn't be, i drop it in with a crane and start seeing where i can line things up. Enough radiator clearance, and the engine mounts being close to something they can bolt to are critical. The trans mount is my third worry.


Then i'd worry about if the engine was too far back from the radiator, that's the main reason hot rodders use electric fans; stock just won't fit for one reason or another. Take some measurements with the motor next to the car on the floor, and the old one out, and start seeing what would made sense.

Unless the rod is sticking thru the block it would be easier quicker and cheaper to rebuild the old engine. If the rod is sticking thru the block buy Ross's $300 engine.

I have done a few engine swaps. They are not that easy. Whenever I see someone who thinks it will be easier and cheaper to do an engine swap, I figure you could bet $100 to a cruller the car will never be finished. In a couple of years a scrap car with no engine, and a scrap engine with no car, will go to the crusher.

All stop....Did I just read that Ross has a good used engine for cheap? This is way way way better value than corrupting with a V8, which you specifically state is being considered due to budget considerations...and by putting a Packard engine back in, you will have no shame in resurrecting an otherwise very interesting car. Please take note...Ross is one of our most expert, experienced guys on this website...

Rusty,

I am not worried about finishing the project as I have time although not the required finances for a total restoration. I have waited for a Packard for too many years to let this go to the scrapper. I have the fortitude to complete the project however I do understand what you are saying. I have seen many guys start with wild ideas and end up with nothing. When I built my Model A boat tail speedster from the guys up I had guys say the same thing; you won't get it done. Today I really enjoy it, first of all because I built it and didn't pay someone to do it and secondly because the satisfaction of accomplishment. BUT I do agree Rusty, I have seen such projects as you have described and I appreciate your view point.
Tommy

Flackmaster,

I understand your point of view also. The only thing I can say in defense is that I don't view value as some do. The projects I do are not for resale, they are deeds of accomplishment. I get their value every time I get the chance to drive them. True we should look down the road as some time in the future value may become a valid consideration, and I am at the age (my 60's) where it will come soon but for now, I want to drive and enjoy. I hope you understand. Value is in the heart and not necessarily always in our heads

Cortcomp gives pretty good advice on positioning the engine.

The only thing i will add is that radiator clearence (if seemingly excessive) is the least of your worries. A fan shroud will take care of that and a shroud is no major fabrication effort.

Watch for drive shaft length. Not a problem to lengthen or shorten a drive shaft but if the engine can be conveniently positioned for zero or minimal driv eshaft modification then let that work in your favour. Special note than when lengthening or shortening a drive shaft cut it at the ENDS not near the center. Cutting and patching a drive shaft near the center creates problems in trying to keep it STREIGHT among other possible problems!.

THis fitting of the engine is just something that has to be done according to visual inspection for clearences and convenience of fabricating mounts. THere will be trade offs. Just try to keep the centerline of the crank and transmission in the same position vertically and transversly as the original engine had. Fore and aft position is not as critical.

Spring rates and steering/handling considerations can be compensated for thru alignment/spring cnages or modifications.

Main thing is to get the engine positioned for clearences and to hold the same attitude of the engine as close to possible to the OEM engine. It mite have to vary some. Bottom line is that u do not want the engine setting in the car with any extreme or odd angles causing drive shaft to have wierd angles from OEM specs.

Any handling or driveability issues can be handled later thru front end alignment changes. Most likely u'll want to set the caster positive anyway for modern high speed driving above 50 mph instead of oem specs.

BTW. Not to create any scare tactic or anything:
For the first 100 or 200 miles drive the car rather easy and ease into any heavy duty driving. There is always the possibility WITH ANY protoyped vehicle that the drive shaft could slip out of the trans or somethinmg break.

Drive shafts have been known to come up thru the floor like a saw blade.

Try to avoid ANY suspension changes or CUTTING of the frame. Suspension alignment changes can come later after test drives. PRobably won't need any. About the only frame changes should be relocating the rear cross support member for the rear trans mount. Something like that.

I would avoid cutting the main frame any at all. Maybe drill a few holes if necessary but i even try to avoid drilling holes in the main frame rails except for maybe drilling new bolt holes for the REAR cross member for trans mount.

PV8,

You are a prince among gentlemen and I appreciate your views and comments and take them to heart. Thanks so much for the information!

Tommy

Keep us posted on your progress.