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Here are some shots of pieces just back from the powder coater. The brake drum backer plate will need to be sanded and another coat applied too much pitting.
Needed to make the device to expand the spring so it would have a uniform coating on all surfaces, the ends will be touched upwhen I take more items in for retoration.

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Fred I enjoy looking at your pictures I also am reduing a 1940 120 club sedan.

I was wondering if you could e-mail me a picture and dimention of your Pass side inner fender, that is the only part I am missing for the body I am told that the 1940 120 is the only year that this part will fit.

Here is my E-mail jclem5780@comcast.net

Dan

Sure I will try and locate it and get pictures, I hope to be taking both of them to the powder coater in the near future. I wil post more pics hopefully soon. I have sent alot of parts out to have restored and will be posting pics of them also.

Hope I can be of help to you. Good luck

Fred D

Fred I was able to pick up a 110 inner fender, I am still looking for your picture and a few dimensions so I can find out how much and where it needs to be extended.

Hi Dan

I am sorry this has taken so long, a lot of things went wrong since I promised you a picture. Computer failure, missing part, missing camera,plus tons more. I found a panel in a scrap yard from a super it was pretty ratty though, there was alos a 41 120 but if I remeber the panel was gone. I finally for mine out and was able to get a picture, also if you sent me your address I made a rough tracing of the panel and I will send it to you. Alot faster than the picture.I promise. I didn't even see one in Hershey.

Next time I get to the scrap yard I will give the other panel a good look over it maybe easier to fix than a 110 panel.

I was looking in my parts book and I think they call that a Splasher assembly, if that is the cas every 120 model has a different part number for the right hand side I don't know why though.

Fred D

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Hello Folks just wanted to give a quick update on my progress. Things are not looking good for the powdercoating idea, it seems as if even though all of the parts were starting to look good, I discovered that the consistency of gloss was different with the types of material being coated. For instace cast pieces looked different than thick stamped steel, and different again from thinner fabricated steel parts. The last test came last week using a new powder on two different pieces, thin sheetmetal and one heavy machined steel. These two pieces were finished using identical procedures and still quite different results in gloss. If this problem can not be resolved in short order it looks like I will be going back to the old Sherwin Williams with gloss reducer. Anybody have any ideas as to what is causing the difference in the parts gloss finish. I had hoped this would be resolved and I could accomplish a lot over the winter. Also can anybody provide the percentage of gloss for the chassis parts.
Thanks to all.

Hello all out there in Packard land, still haven't figured out what is going on in the powdwecoating area. But after talking with several folks including powdercoating experts, I have come to the conclusion I need to get out of the present state of confusion and get to work. The latest problem came after talking with the paint folks at Sherwin williams, since my chassis was painted a long time ago, with that product, I contacted them only to be told that Acrlyd is no longer supplied.
Another issue I found out after using it and experimenting with their flattening agent and coming close to the desired gloss. ia that a coat with hardner cannot be applied over a non hardner induced coat has been applied. I don't know the validity of that statement. Can anybody verify that???? Also does anybody know the compatability of their new product Dimension, over Acrylyd ??
Am getting ready to order items from Fred at Max Merritt, however the will not be at the upcoming Frederick show. Oh well there is always Hershey. I did order new door sills for the car from Door Sills, talked to Mary Ann, what a wonderful lady. Hope to pick them at Hershey also.
I just got my original Packard oil filter back from the shop after having in cleaned and blasted, needs a little surface prep before painting. Coming along nicely though.
Which reminds me Kev I have a copy of the accessory book for 1940. I will send to you in the future, don't know when though.
The cluth and pressure plate are boxed up and ready to send out as soon as I decide where to send it, any recomendations.
Since it is Easter I am getting ready to visit my grandkids and have dinner. Happy holidays to all.

Sounds good, I look forward to scanning the book when you are able to sent it over.

The cluth and pressure plate are boxed up and ready to send out as soon as I decide where to send it, any recomendations.

Fort Wayne Clutch seems to always get favorable comments. No personal experience with them.

Paints years ago had no hardener or activator to add to them such as lacquer, synthetic enemal etc. therefore they never actually cured hard, and would expand or contract (shrink) so putting an activated medium over them could cause problems with lifting if they reacted, or cracking in due time.
Have you ever thought about Chassis Black or Chassis Saver or other coatings designed for such parts. they come in gloss and flat black as well as clear and silver that I know of. This stuff gets so hard and durable it is like porcilen enamel. Caution not to get it on your skin for to long because it will not come off, and make sure you clean the rim of the can and the lid extra clean or you will not get the lid back off without ruining the can.
It can be brushed and flows out like glass or sprayed. Clean up with acetone is best solvent that I've found so far.