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Joe, another impressive posting. Solving problems gives so much satisfaction. Have you contacted Aarmand's (sp.?) on North Main in Walnut Creek? He does first class interiors and has a great reputation.

(o{I]o)

I hate to disillusion you, JW.
The truth is in 1986, anticipating a completed car in no time, ha ha, I ordered a firewall from Armands to replace my very holey, but thick bumpy leathery rubber firewall. The replacement was a great disappointment. One thin piece of molded plastic barely 3/32nds with a pin-point finish and a couple of slots cut out of the top. It had no insulation. It had no edging. It looked like it came out of the cheapest pick-up imaginable. It required you to make a big paper pattern from your existing firewall. Then use that to mark it for holes for heater, radio, speaker etc. (I'm sure this method would create a lot of double-hole installations.) Mark for notches, tab, etc.. Drill the holes. Trim as needed with tin snips to get it to fit. Cut insulation as needed...use the pattern and cut some more. Glue on the insulation with contact cement. Install.

I still have it. Every time I look at it I growl.

The QuietRide people while somewhat rude* and non-responsive (after I called and complained, they promised someone knowledgeable would contact me, but never did), the product was better. I don't think it would take much to improve it and make it appear more authentic, but it looks pretty good and much better than the old battleship one I had in there that survived holes for a lot of inauthentic items over the years.

A lot of vendors have a sort of hot rod mentality, meaning this new material is an improvement over the style, texture, etc of what was used originally. Either that, or I'm just getting grouchier as I get older. Which is a possibility. Lower tolerance setting in.

That was then, and I'm sure Armand's does a better job, perhaps a superior job today per your recommendation.

*They first said they had a floor kit for my car, but only after probing did I find out that the kit for may car is the universal kit. Since I'm a neophyte in all this I asked what the process was that I'd have to do if I ordered that kit. I was told that if I didn't know how to do it I should contact an upholstery shop. After I called they promised someone would call or email me to tell me the steps. I think the floor kit is $200. BUt no one has yet and it's been a couple months.

Folks that I know that are doing top-notch restorations and demanding authenticity have bought from Quiet Ride Solutions, 209-942-4777. They seem to be the preferred source by a wide margin. A friend bought from them for both his 36 120 convertible and 36 Twelve victoria and said the quality and match to originals was excellent. He also recommends taking their option of having the holes predrilled as they are not easy to cut with precision. And they do list ones for many 1940 models. Not inexpensive, about $220 at last check.

Thanks OD. I did buy my firewall from Quiet Ride and it looks nice, but the texture and the finish is different from the original. Just saying, a little more research. Rubbery dull and pigskin bumpy versus the one they sent me which was shiny and grained like rough-hewn wood.

As far as pre-drilling, I had requested that, but it wasn't done when it arrived. I drilled little 1/8-in. holes from the engine compartment after I installed the firewall using the existing holes in the cowl as the guide, which I'd already verified by temporarily installing my radio, heater, speaker. The insulation wraps around the drill bit a little, but when I drilled with the larger size from inside the car my holes were spot on. I really think it's more of a customer service issue than a product quality. The actual materials and workmanship are very good. Just not the same as original. Just prodding for quality (i.e. fitness for use, which in this application includes authentic appearance as well as function).

If I ever get an answer from Quiet Ride, I will buy their floor insulation kit. But I want to know the steps involved and the possible pitfalls. Instructions come with the kit, but I prefer fewer surprises.

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Joe, sounds like the firewall Aarmand sold to you was made by someone else. My observation of his work is the stuff he cuts and sews himself. No excuse though for selling a sub-standard item. Good luck, it is going to be a great car.

(o{I}o)

TO DO LIST
Those nagging issues that were set aside, now need attention to complete the Duchess. Current situation is everything that can come off the body, except for doors and trunk lid is at the paint shop. All the upholstery pieces were pulled down to get estimates. And Sunday I backed her out so I could get in the attic and bring down the spare rims and tires. I ordered door sils from Door Sills, but will not have them for a few months, so will use old ones, polished up. Wiper mounts, male dovetail for doors, and seat adjuster collar are in for chrome.

I ordered the side mount center stainless steel trim pieces from Northfield Forming, about $200. EDIT $220 with shipping. On their way.

I found the pattern for a 1940 Super 8 Convertible Sedan at E-Z ON, something most authorities did not think was available. EDIT: On one estimate this saved about $1,000 in labor and materials.

1. Drill one more door handle shaft as we broke off the bit, both ways. Take to a machine shop.
EDIT: A very kind and generous machine shop owner near my office took a look and said it probably can't be drilled. Drill bits are 60 Rockwell hard. Fortunately I brought the escutcheon and retainer with me. He pinged the shaft instead of drilling and inserting a pin, as it was done originally...in exchange for a ride in the Duchess when it's done. One item down.

2. Follow up on the door pins being machined.

3. Get an estimate on the feasibility of putting striations in my solid aluminum running board moldings. If over $300, buy new.

4. Work the grill until it open and closes easily.

5. Secure the exhaust pipe so it doesn't hit the frame if the engine rocks.
EDIT: SEcured but bending to clear the frame will have to be done at the Midas muffler shop.

6. Install floor insulation.

7. Paint and woodgrain dash (my big job).

8. Find someone to install the new running board rubber.

9. Follow up on David Moe list. EDIT: Done but no response.

10. Take rear window frame and horn ring in for chrome. These items looked perfectly good...until the other chrome items were finished.

That's all for now.
EDIT: Today I saw my first actual sprayed on sample of Blackhawk Gray Metallic for approval. It is gorgeous, rich like French roast, with a mixture of extra fine and medium metallic which highlights beautifully. Before I say it has hints of cherry and walnut, I'll back off of that. BUT this is the official PPG conversion from the original Ditzler (then a PPG division) 1940 color prepared by the PPG color library. I'm thrilled.

WE HAVE PAINT!
At long last. This is 1940 Blackhawk Gray Metallic.
The front fenders are in final surfacing.
The rear fenders and shell are in basecoat.
Some hood parts, head and tail lights have clear before polishing.

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Looks like a great color choice, Joe. you'll be together in no time! What are the odds of two '40 Super 8 convertible sedan project threads running concurrently on this site? small world isn't it. I really am glad to have threads like yours and West Peterson's to use for reference in my work.

Looking forward to seeing more painted parts.

That's a great color- your car is going to be stunning! I really like the deep, rich colors on Packards. Congrats on seeing all your hard work pull together!

Thanks, Jim. Yes, my posts are very insightful, "Boy, is that the hard way to do something or not!" "Whew, I almost tried it that way myself." "O THAT'S what a _____ looks like when you break it in the process of taking it apart when you should have left it alone."

And Yes, We are proving that 1940 160 1377s rule! (However benevolently) ... as modern cars with older classic lines, making them excellent touring cars.

Can't find the Wanted Ad in either a PI or PAC recent publication, but someone was looking for a 1377 to use for touring.