Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Quote:

There was no proportioning valve in the stock setup. Brakes are drum/drum and cylinder sizes are different and appropriate for the amount of braking split desired front/rear with a single line. The only thing you may need to look into is the residual valve. As mentioned, it is built into the Treadlevac on your car now and depending on what you use for your standard master that may have to be looked at & verified present or if using a new aftermarket cylinder, possibly added.

If you decide to adapt a new modern dual master then possibly a proportioning valve and residual valves would be needed--again depending on the setup.

I'll happily sell you the parts you need to install the manual brake; I probably have 3 or 4 sets available. PM me for details. It's not all that hard. Does your car have Ultra? Or, I could rebuild your Treadlevac for you. Even easier.

Yes the car has Ultra.

I changed my Treadle Vac to new power booster and master .
cost was under $450.00 I love it. If you type in New power booster and master cylinder in the search box then hit
HH56-2010/12/24 you will see how I did it. I do not know if it is the same as my car. It was not that hard.

You can rebuild or have rebuilt or buy a rebuilt TreadleVac at your peril. If you buy and install a new, modern dual MC with or without booster, you will be vastly safer. JMHO.

Craig

Thanks for all the information. I am going to standard brakes and looking for the parts to do the job. Anyone looking for a esomatic for a core to use for rebuild?

I got the parts for the conversion to standard brakes today in the mail. I will be preparing them for installation and go to NAPA to get a new Master Cylinder. I have been looking on line for the remote fills and I still am not sure which one to choose. I don't like the plastic ones that most of the vendors offer. Thanks for the new contact I will give him a call and find out how his unit is made. I would like to have a metal one that I can fit in the slot on the drivers side fender.

Does anyone have experience with the flexable brake line sold on line? Are they metal or plastic?

Changed the rear wheel cylinders(1 1/16) last night, temperatures got into the confortable 80's. Doing the rear hose and lines tommorow then to the front.

I removed all the brake lines and had a problem with the rear brake T(junction for the rear brakes). I got two of the fittings out, but the third one coming from the front broke off inside the T. My questions are:
1.When changing the brake lines did everyone use that T? 2.How is the T attached to the rear end housing?
3.Can I change and use a regular brass T and not effect the brake operation?
4. Is the vent necessary?

I don't have an EZ out that small,but will check around for one tonight.

Willis