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Lookin' good! Hopefully the crack in the block will not be an issue for you.

As for the distribution block, I assume you used a bent rod to pull it out by hooking it in one of the holes? Casey Rog mentioned in this thread that he used some metal strapping to loosen it up with good results.

Nice work Ken, and great documentation!

As for the crack in the water jacket, it looks identical to the one in my 1950 Eight. I don't believe it will be a major problem, just seeing the seeping coolant just looks bad.

I've read a few blogs about patching these type cracks up with JB weld so I'm giving that some consideration. I'm interested to hear your ideas and thoughts.

Looking forward to reading more of your project updates.

Sam

I think the crack in the block will be super easy to manage- I had it up to temp a few times, and it wasn't weeping from the crack at all.

I haven't worked on the water distribution tube since my last post. I painted the block, and I want to let it get well-cured before I get too busy trying to get the tube out.

Headed out to my neighbors farm to look at a '38 Packard Eight. I thought I was going to be able to get a heater and spare wheel from the car. It turns out that there were no wheels, and the heater was rusted through. I brought home an autolite starter with the original solenoid that won't fit my delco starter, a banjo steering wheel core that I think is slightly different from my '37 wheel, and a clock that has a rusted through case. Pretty sad car. I was out of light, so I didn't get any other pictures. A Buick in the foreground of the one picture. Not sure what year it is, but I like the hood handle and scallop in front of the headlight.

The story behind the '38 Eight- my neighbor's dad bought it in the fifties for the tires. Scrapped the rest of the car, even though it was running and driving at the time. It's been sitting here rotting for a half century. The block might be worth saving, maybe.

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man i love the pictures you took though, kinda cool!

That Buick sure looks like a 37-41 Lincoln Zephyr to me

Definitely Lincoln. Based on the grille, bumper and the headlight ornamentation, I'm going to guess 1937. 1936 Zephyr had a different bumper and I don't think had the headlight ornamentation.

incredible how much more style and class the 37 Packard had over that turd lincoln.

Got some more done last night and today. I didn't have any kerosene laying around, so I bought a can of lock lubricant with graphite. I sprayed a little in the heat riser valve on the exhaust manifold, and after soaking overnight and a little initial persuasion with a pipe wrench, the heat riser valve moves freely. New spring installed, and as soon as I get the right size bolt (I forgot to get the long one!), my manifolds will be back together and ready to be milled or re-installed.

Put the final coat of paint on the motor and transmission. I didn't paint the head yet, I'll do that after the motor is installed.

Ordered a fuel flex line from Niagra Packards and hood hold-downs from San Diego Packard. I was going to order a battery box from SD PAC as well, but Rock Auto Parts (http://www.rockauto.com/) has them for $10 less. They also have some rubber products, I may investigate there when I get to the rubber replenishment stage. Long time off right now.

I also painted the e-brake cable brackets today.

Final thing- I was going to flare the tubing on the sending unit out of my tank, but I happened to pull one out of the rusted tank remnants on the '38 last night. The line was in good shape and still had the fitting, so I decided to use it. I took it apart- one stiff pull- and then disassembled my sending unit.

Before I reassemble the unit, I will have to make a new gasket and get two small brass rivets. Before I put it back together, I want to verify the sending unit works. I tried to get a resistance reading from it, and couldn't get very good numbers. I think the resistance went from about 20 to 160 ohms full to empty, but I couldn't get the same reading twice.

Anyone know the specs, or where I can find them?

Rusted out old unit with the good brass tube:

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Motors Manual says 35-37 used AC gauges. The 35 Packard technical info manual has a write up on the operation but there is no value given in anything I have or can find for the full end. This article says empty should be 0 ohms or ground. A typical GM type sender is 0 to 90 and maybe that is a place to start. If no one has a good sender to measure then to find out the value, perhaps inserting a potentiometer in place instead of the sender would work. Changing resistance until the gauge reads full and then measuring the pot should get a fairly close number. Potentiometer

In all probability the support cardboard or phenolic strip holding the resistance wire is warped and wiper is making very poor contact.

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Thanks for the info Howard.

I have more questions. Does anyone have a good source for the straps that go between the tank and the straps? What about the felt washer on the dipstick? I tried to find some sources locally, but didn't have any luck. Thoughts? Thanks!