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Those points are new from Max Merritt. The pic makes everything look dirty. Ok I have spark going in and out of the coil. The points are opening at the high cam lobe and alinged ok . The green wire going into the dist at the top of pic is the + wire on the coil side, when I bump the starter over I see no spark between the points. I have spark coming out of the coil wire into the dist cap also. Its dead inside the dist. Is there a ground wire some where for the dist. I get no spark coming out of the plug wires to plugs, so its in the distributor but where. voltage or fire or spark its all the same here, Oklahoma slang. lol

I am not familiar enough with that dist to know for sure where it gets a solid ground from since it rotates. Cortcomp says thru the clamps and there is an extra ground wire showing in the parts manual from the vacuum advance setup to the distributor case.

I think you said you had spark from the coil to the dist but if not, Remove the high voltage center conductor from distributor and place end near the block -- about 1/8" or so away. Then remove the green wire from the distributor primary coil terminal and with ign key on, touch it against the block. You should see a small spark and when removing primary wire from the block, the coil should generate it's big spark. If it does, problem lies within the distributor or points. If no spark, problem is with the coil. You may not see much of a spark at the points because that is what the condenser is supposed to control.

If you get a spark, reconnect the primary green wire to dist and crank the engine leaving the center coil wire near block. You should see many sparks. If not, a distributor or points problem. I don't remember the exact unit but there have been reports of some replacement rotors not quite lining up properly because the notch was different or not being high enough to reach the cap. If you changed the cap or rotor did you verify the replacements are identical with the old.

I don't recall being able to easily see spark at the points, i had new condensor and everything from MM also. IF the points are gapped close, and the spark plug gap isn't too wide (i think mine were at .040 when my spark was intermittent) you should see something at the plugs unless you have a bad coil or condensor.

That's assuming everything you've said so far about power to the coil and the points aren't shorted out, etc etc.

I will try the old rotor and see if that works. The new cap looked the same to me and so did rotor. Thanks for everyones input. I will get her fired up, Im close

Who every said rotor was right, put the old rotor in and she kicked off for 30 seconds, twice. I'm recharging the battery since I ran it down trying to find the source. I guess you need to check any new parts close. Im happy now , just order new brushes for the starter from MM. I have new brushes for the Gen which Im going to rebuilt today. Can't wait for the first drive. I'm doing a new brake job too. Oklahoma clutch and brake reline all my brake shoes for all my cars. My 48 plymouth, 57 chevy, 55 ford, 56 chrysler and now my first 53 packard. Thanks Everyone I may need some more advice later on something else.

Wait a minute!!!! Lets determine what is wrong with the rotor. What brand is it???? Maybe show a pic of the contact area from the top. Does it have a carbon connector between center contact and outer contact??? Lets figure out what's wrong with the rotor here.

Good to hear you got it going. I'd be curious also to see the difference.

IIRC there were three things mentioned in the past about rotors via discussions either here or on AACA with a particular rotor/cap combination. One was the locating notch indexed them about 20 degrees or so different, another was the length of either the tip or the center conductor was too short and the third was a rotor with built in resistor effectively killed the spark.

Don't remember numbers & details or which dist was involved.

Some rotors have a built in resistor to eliminate radio interference on AM radios. Some spark plug wires are "resistance type" to do the same, and some spark plugs are "resistor type" for ??

None of these things will "kill the spark", there have been tens if not hundreds of millions of cars on the road with these type parts. A bad rotor, a bad spark plug or a bad wire of any brand, style or type may not conduct a spark.

Geez Fred, cut some slack. All right, so "kill the spark" was not the most accurate term I could have used but it got the point across and was easier to spell. Yes, millions of cars used resistors in all the parts you mentioned but not, I believe, 6 volt Packards. While adequate, those --and most other 6 volt cars-- were not equipped with the most powerful of sparks even when new and everything was stock and in perfect condition. If so, there would have been no market for the the many "spark enhancers", dual point kits, and other sometimes dubious ignition performance items separating people from their money in the 50's. One of the later symptoms mentioned in the post was spark at dist but no spark at plugs so a resistor in the rotor or anywhere else in the stream would not help the situation.

Resistor or no resistor in the rotor is irrelevant to this situation. If there is a crack or break between the center contact of the rotor and the outer contact then current flow will be compromised.

What we need to know now is WHY is the rotor bad. SPECIFICS!. Also need to know any markings that mite be on the rotor such as numbers, logos or any type of nomencalture.