Packard Forum Index » Project Blogs

Most wheels from any manufacturer were painted black front,back and inside and then painted body color on the face side.You definitly want to paint the back sides and insides with something so they dont rust.If the rust gets bad enough it will cause the bead to lose its seal and deflate the tires

Long message lost in cyberspace. Summation follows.

Busy summer, solved electrical issue, got engine to fire in a beautiful cloud of blue smoke, did not achieve idle, began work on exterior (stripping primer, original paint underneath, and original primer underneath that. Worked on the interior; disassembled the front seat to the bare frame. Need to weld two parts. Discovered seat constructed of frame and spring, topped with burlap reinforced with wire, topped with cotton, topped with petrified latex (picture below), covered by more cotton then mousseline fabric and, finally, the original seat material. Got replacement materials for from seat from Al Knoch, a local interior specialist that specializes in Corvettes and Camaros.

Took the driver side rear interior door panel to Al Knoch interiors. He can custom reproduce but will be in stitching rather than heat pressing of the original. Cool thing, discovered what I thought was an overly simple panel covering was actually interior covering (similar to the seat covers I took off previously) and that the original interior was underneath. Pictures below.

Attach file:

---

  (131.18 KB)


  (89.70 KB)


  (90.38 KB)

Oh, also painted the hubcaps (by hand).

The only question I had from last post is whether anyone knows of other sources of interior pieces versus me having the local shop manufacture them by hand (and stitching versus heat press).

I guess the only other thing I can say for today is THANK GOD THE COLLEGE FOOTBALL SEASON HAS STARTED!

Attach file:

---

  (103.75 KB)

In case there's any concern that I don't have Attention Deficit Disorder, I'm also including pictures of the Easamatic Brake Booster that I'm working on rebuilding.

I'm going to have to take the brake fluid reservoir to the local speed shop to see if they can get the stuck compensator valve out. I'll have them clean up the other metal parts while at it.

I think it's pretty cool that this was made by Bendix in my hometown of South Bend, IN. Growing up, many of friends had parents with employment at Bendix as did my Mother and Grandfather.

The only casualties I've seen during the disassembly have been the front piston plate spring and the master cylinder piston cup washer retaining ring.

Attach file:

---

  (108.78 KB)


  (99.12 KB)


  (109.26 KB)


  (64.21 KB)

How is the compensator valve spring? I don't see it in your collection.

Great eye!!! I had to go back to the manual and part to double check. I believe both the cup and spring are AWOL. Is it possible these parts were made of a material that could completely disintegrate?

The spring is stainless steel so would normally not corrode although there is one poster who has seen one in pretty sad shape due to whatever reason.

The bad thing is they are not part of any repro kits and vendors have yet to see a need to supply new ones. There have been a couple of commercial stock springs cited as possible replacements but don't believe anyone has found an exact match via that route yet. You will probably have to find someone with a parts unit to get one. The retainer clip for the spring to valve shaft does come in some kits with the new valves or is readily available.

And here's the rear fender work...

I think there may be filler from previous work around the wheel well.

Attach file:

---

  (89.13 KB)


  (95.73 KB)

In addition to the old sunglasses, old pennies, one shoe, comb, and nail clippers, I now found, underneath the dashboard, a botal of phenobarbital from 8 OOC 68.

Who would've thought drug use was high in the 60's?

Attach file:

---

  (67.19 KB)


  (68.00 KB)

We did many things in the 60's that are thankfully are not discussed with our kids or grandkids.