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Stainless tubing it a pain to bend and even harder to flair and get a proper seal. You may need to borrow pneumatic flaring tool.

Also they do make stainless bolts in grade 8 strength. Either "Total Stainless" or ARP had them, I can't remember which one.

We have a good hardware supply house in Latrobe Pa. called "The Nuthouse". I go there sometimes because I just feel at home.

not sure if there is anything like that around my area, but maybe. i'll have to google maps that.

only places i know are tractor supply, lowes, and HD, but i'm sure there is a specialty store.

for now ebay is cheap and arp/totally stainless seems to have a good selection. thanks for the tip Kev.

HH, bad news and good news on that intake manifold washer. good news....it will work fine....bad news...the original is 1.5 inches diameter now 1 inch, so do you know of something that is 1.5" thick, before i buy that product you suggested.

thanks,

Hank

In thick for 3/8", very limited. From McMaster, next up in thick stainless is 2" diameter and pricy at 17.50 ea. If you would consider regular steel which would have to be painted, then an option in 1 1/2 dia would have a 1/4" hole. You could drill it out and get 5 of those for $8--. Heck, you could even get one of those Caswell plug and plate kits for $40 and plate them and other stuff in nickel or fake chrome. Of course, it might wash off but who knows.

Put the part number in McMaster's search and the catalog page with sizes and options will come up. Didn't see anything close at MSC.

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i may have found something from totally stainless, but my brain is fried looking around.

they had "INT/EXH .380 1.25 .312 P/N 2-4425 $4.50" so it is a bit too thick and a bit too small, but its pretty darn close. 4.50 each.

i plan to call them tomorrow.

summit has the studs for the intake manifold though. they are the exact size. i extracted the studs tonight and they are 2" long exactly.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-AJ2000-12G/?rtype=10

and here are a couple of options for the carb studs. i didn't take out the carb studs yet, but i did measure what was sticking out already and then measured only the threaded part, to come up with 1.75" long. so these options below will work fine even at 1.70" long.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-400-2401/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PFS-20150/

i plan to buy the natural ones with out the nuts as i already bought the nuts on ebay. total was cheaper that way too.

the exhaust header bolts are, by my estimate 1.75" as well in a 2" deep total hole (header/hole in cylinder head), i see totally stainless has a total-loc brand that is 3/8 x 1.50. i plan to call and talk to them about the header bolts. gonna look around on summit more too. the ones i found on summit so far are 2" long and only steel.

Hank

fyi to everyone following.

Totally stainless can make whatever you want.

so i had them custom make me those intake manifold washers.
i went with 3/8 x 1.5 x 1/4 SS

i also ordered their totalloc system for the header bolts.

and i ordered the intake manifold studs fromt them as well, instead of summit as they were cheaper then summit

the carb studs i got from a place called competition speed out of CA. it was 9.86 with free shipping, which was also half the price of summit. (hopefully they are reputible)

over all the pricing wasn't all that cheap, but it will be worth it.

i plan to just use regular zinc coated grade 8 on the motor mounts and the trans mount etc etc as thats all lower down and nobody will really see it and it should resist rust for a good long while. plus the prices are about 1/3 what it would be from totally stainless for the same stuff, and i'm about tapped out on project money right now.

i will update my blog with all this information as well.

Hank

Beautiful looking engine. I like the contrast that stainless gives. Nicely done!

Thanks for info on Totally Stainless. Downloaded their catalog and a great selection. Good to know they will custom make things. Did they say if that was only on specific items and is there a minimum quantity or amount?

I agree with KevinAZ. It is looking good but one thing I'm curious about is what changed your mind on originality. Believe me, I am far from a purist but when you started your project, you were going to keep everything original--down to not even wanting to upgrade the Ultramatic to 56 changes. Now you are putting in bling in the form of shiny stainless steel attractions. Keep going like that and any day now I expect to see you inquiring about hot rod options.

they don't have a minimum and i don't know if it is only specific things.

as to the rest of the comments, i'm not sure how to respond.

the only thing original on the motor is the heads up, sans the valve springs, so what is the point. it'll never be like it was coming of the line now, that all died when i figured out my original block was crap.

but if you think about it....its all Packard except the valve springs. and if i painted the bolts wouldn't they still be the same....just different material. it just think it will look cleaner with out paint chips on the heads of the bolts from putting them on or taking them off, i don't care about the bling....i just like they will stay clean.

and fyi...TS sells the period correct bolts for this car in SS. the ones with the beveled circle cut out of the hex head. but i don't have that kinda money. i can buy SS 5/16 bolts on ebay for pennies a bundle, but i'm sure these correct ones are dollars per item and still wouldn't be correct cause they are SS.

i could beat myself with a bat w/ nail in it over trying to get every little detail perfect. i mean i do want to drive this thing some day before i turn 80.

don't worry about rodding...that wont happen. its about as extreme as it will ever get right now. the rest of the car will be the way it was meant to be as best as i can make it.


sorry if i let anyone down.

Hank

You didn't let anyone down on this end and I certainly didn't mean to imply it. No need for frowns and rainclouds. I applaud your efforts and think you're doing a great job. This comes from someone who puts GM switches, universal brake boosters, modified AC, non factory electrical mods and knowingly incorrect carpet in what was an otherwise somewhat original car so has no right to voice any disappointment. Probably have more non original bolts or parts spread thruout than you ever will--.

Packard did offer bling early on -- things like chrome acorn head nuts on I8s and chrome valve covers and tail pipe extensions on V8s for example -- and is perfectly acceptable. I was just curious as to what changed your mind from the original plan. The fact the original engine turned out to be crap could certainly do it.