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I am in the process of replacing manifold gaskets, and repainting the manifolds on my 1947 Clipper 6 cylinder.

I have a manifold heat riser rebuild kit, which includes a new spring, new bushings and a new shaft for the flapper valve inside the exhaust manifold. The flapper valve and the counterweight need to be re-used.

After 65 years of "attachment", the counter weight does not want to come off the shaft.

To complicate the process further, I have a buddy who is helping me on the project, and (with some 3 Stooges buffoonery) we have proceeded to crack the counterweight in half trying to punch the shaft from the cast iron weight.

And yesterday while I was at work, my buddy (a former machinist) was at my house doing a project for my wife, and he strayed-off to my garage, where he proceed to drill some slightly off-center holes through the counterweight trying to free the stuck shaft. I had warned him that I didn't have the tools to make this work, and it needed to be done my a machine shop, but, HEY, it's "2 Stooges" in action.

Three questions:

- Can the counterweight be welded ?

- Does the shaft need to be pressed-out, or drilled-out ?

- Anyone have a manifold riser counterweight for sale ?

Thanks, in advance, for the feedback.

Best regards,

Dave Blandford
cell 513-205-3188

Been there, done that.
I ended up getting a block of brass and drilling it to slide over the shaft and tapping for a set-screw to hold it on. Now I can take it on/off and even make adjustments to the angle at-will.
-Dave

Adding this so as not to start a new thread on heat risers.

Can anyone tell me if I have my heat riser/heat control valve set up right? The engine doesn't warm up very quickly, so I suspect I have it wrong. Backwards usually looks right to me.

I found this Q-Tip by Fred Mauck in a PI newsletter Fall 2010. But while I "get" what the heat riser is supposed to do, I can't see inside the manifold. And it looks like there are 2 flaps in there. Two flaps set at like a 190 degree angle. In my photos I called the shaft the "rod."

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Hi Joe,

Rotation should be opposite to what you are showing on the photos.
As the manifold heats up, the thermostatic spring should relax and the counterweight on the rear side of the manifold will rotate the rod to the warmed up engine position.

Brian

Thanks for answering, Brian.

Do I have the spring installed correctly, but I am misunderstanding how the spring will react?

Or, do I need to flip the spring over and hook it on the other side of the cup, so it turn the shaft clockwise?

Currently, when the engine is cold, the counterweight is at the top, and all the travel is down on that side, counter clockwise. As I push the counterweight down, it pulls more and more against the anti-rattle spring.