Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Hello Everybody,
I am looking for a part number for a molded lower radiator hose that will replace the OEM trans cooler assembly. The other day my radiator started leaking. When I pulled the radiator to have it re-cored, I noticed the OEM transcooler was severely rusted where the radiator hoses connect to it. I spent about an hour in Auto Zone behind the counter looking through their hose gallery and could not find a hose that would work. I installed an external trans oil cooler about 5 months ago and it is working great. Now it's time to replace the OEM assembly completely. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Brian

G'day all, Just a note of caution with regard to fitting a modern oil cooler in place of the Packard kidney model. The back pressure should not be above 30 PSI as this back pressure is subtracted from your Direct Drive Clutch application pressure. I'm surprised that you were not able to weld new end pipe pieces to replace the rusted out sections. Exhaust pipe is fine for repairs. best regards Peter Toet

I'm assuming your new "external" trans cooler was an air-cooled (versus liquid-cooled) type. I had this change made on my Twin Ultramatic during a transmission rebuild and had a subsequent transmission failure which I attributed (correctly or incorrectly) to that style of cooler. I was stuck in near stand-still traffic for about 3 hours on an interstate in full midday sun on a 99 degree day last summer. In such conditions, to keep the car moving a couple of yards every few minutes, the torque converter is producing extreme heat but the only air flow over the trans cooler is that little bit the fan can pull thru with the engine at idle speed - the effect was trans damage from overheating. Granted, this is the type of extreme condition one might never experience again to that degree.

After the trans was redone, I had the original liquid cooler returned to service, in series with the air cooler so that even when there is little or no air flow, there is still cooling. The internal portion of the original cooler is stainless steel so not likely to leak - I suggest you repair the simple sheet metal necks on the original cooler and reinstall it, alone or in series with whatever other cooler you have.

PS - the one positive from the experience, the car didn't overheat significantly, and no evidence of vapor lock. The car does not have an electric fuel pump.

Brian,

Good advice from O_D, based on unfortunate experience.

My '55 Clipper was changed from Twin-Ultramatic to a manual shift transmission. NAPA 7384 hose was used in place of the transmission cooler and original lower radiator hoses. It did not have a spring inside, but I found one in the top hose and used it in the lower, suction side.

I hope this helps.

(o[]o)

I had the necks repaired on my OEM trans cooler and ran the new air-cooled unit in series with OEM. It seems to have worked well for me for several years. As O_D says the OEM cooler is stainless inside and so will last longer than us.

Goodyear 60706 will replace the trans cooler and associated hoses.

Craig

Questions,
How do you know the pressure of an external cooler? Are they rated on the box or the cooler?

If you put it in series, doesn't it still creat the pressure?

If you put it in series, is it before, or after the factory flow?

I think this maybe what happened to my 56 Clipper!

I don't know about pressure drop ratings either. Doing a quick look, coolers I see do not mention any ratings to speak of.

If you do a search for "transmission cooler" here on site, there are several discussions from past years. Two in particular -- KevinAZ's 55 mockup about 4 or 5 pages in on the search and another on an external cooler for 56 at around 7 pages. Turbopackman was a participant at the time and he and others gave several suggestions on things to look for in coolers.

I have mine in series after the water cooler. Reasoning at the time was the water would start the cool and air would finish it rather than air cooling and water possibly heating it up again. Don't know if that is proper reasoning but so far with my admittedly limited driving, everything is still working.

I did the same - used a flat plate cooler from B&M.
Everything seems to be working OK.

I had 2 reasons for installing the air cooler, one was for additional cooling (keep it cool, keep it happy), the other was to keep the antifreeze out of the transmission. Since Owen stated the internal cooler was stainless steel it would seem that keeping antifreeze out of the transmission is something I don't need to worry about. I am going to keep the OEM cooler on the car and run my air cooler in series with it. I will have the collars repaired. Thanks everyone for the help. I look forward to the day when I can return a favor. Brian

Attach file:

---

  (9.83 KB)


  (10.01 KB)


  (9.60 KB)