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Dan, sounds like you are having pushbutton troubles, amongst others. What is the system not doing? is it stuck in a particular gear? You did the two-lite test. What side lit and what side didn't (either term. 4=or/bk or term. 6=pink)
OK-re: pushbutton trouble

easy things:
check the breaker for system power and the ign. feed via the yellow wire

check the connector under the dash, make sure the two connector halves are pushed all the way together, make sure all individual brass connectors are pushed all the way into the plastic connector body.

check for power coming out of the pressure switch with the key on and the engine off

If it's not any of these, $20 says it's inside the actuator in the fingers. If so, follow the directions in the auto-lite manual for removal, but don't remove the unit, just get to where you can see/fix the fingers.


hint: it's always the fingers

Had an interesting thing when attempting to back out of garage last week. Haven't run across it before but maybe Mr. PB has.

Anyway, pushed R, some clicks, a buzz or 2 and circuit breaker started cutting out so I went nowhere. Did this for all except park. Figured fingers, so started to take that apart, gave up when I couldn't get to all the screws without the full trans move over procedure (Hint: Mr PB has recommended allen head screws down there and he is so right)

After more deductive reasoning, superb trouble shooting (ha) but more realistically blind luck it led me into auto park relay circuit so bypassed that and all was well. I did check the shift relay and had found both terminal 4 & 6 had voltage when only one should have so in actuality, motor was trying to go both directions at once hence the CB action.

Figured park relay contact welded so took that apart today and something partially conductive had become wedged inside the relay in the narrow space between relay frame and the post that is constant feed from battery, in effect keeping the park finger active all the time at a reduced voltage. Relay is original but doesn't appear to have been molested, so can only assume it was something from mfg as I don't see anything obvious broken off relay. Removed it, tested and all well again.

Dan

I wouldn't run or drive the car until you determine the source of those leaks. Since both tranny fluid and engine coolant pass through the oil cooler, that could be the source of your trouble, but I hope not. When coolant gets inside an automatic transmission, I have seen it ruin the clutch discs, requiring a full overhaul.

However, it is not uncommon to find coolant on the ground below these cars since they did not have a recovery system. The cap merely vents excess coolant/pressure through a small tube that runs down along one side of the radiator.

If your lucky, the tranny fluid on the gournd may have come form a flare fitting that may have lossoende up whe you manipulated the cooler to install the loser hoses.

Let us know what you find.

Yes, I highly recommend removing the original cooler and replacing it with a flat tube type of the highest BTU's you can get. I don't trust the original one with 50+ years of internal corrosion. That and the fact that a modern flat tube type cooler is 1000 times more efficient than the original. Just avoid the round tube ones, as they're just as expensive and not near as efficient. Do this, and you'll never need to worry about the possibility of water in your trans.

Eric,

Do you have a picture of where you mounted the trans cooler? I was thinking of doing this on my '54 as my existing trans cooler needs new water outlets brazed on. So I was just going to use the lower radiator hose used on the manual transmission cars, and use a more new trans cooler like you are.

I think Albert runs both. He goes through the new trans cooler first, then through the regular cooler. I think thats because he pulls that trailer with his 54.

No pictures, but I just mounted it in front of the radiator. It came with 4 little "zip tie" fasteners that go through the radiator to hold it on. It's pretty simple to put it on. Just make sure you put the little foam spacers in between the coler and the radiator!

What brand and model did you buy?

The biggest, baddest mo'fo I could find at Oreilly's: B & M - A/T COOLER (SUPER COOLER 19K GVW)
Item No: 70268

Directly from the Oreilly Auto website.

It is time for an up-date. First I can not thank you guys enough. We've got some brilliant bas***ds here. Hate to think how many of these old cars would be scrapped if we could not communicate our hair-brained ideas.
After much pain and contortions, I got her up on jack stands in my garage.
Symptoms:
Push buttons have no effect.
Coolant just streams out.
A steady drain of Trany fliud.

I have removed the radiator and am having a new one built. This one will be aluminum, incorporate a seven vane transmission cooler and flow about 3200 CFM. Putting in a 16 inch electric fan thermostatically controlled and has a shroud. That should stop leak as well as do a better job of cooling and prolong life of both engine and Ultramatic!

Next I have to remove the Actuator and ship it off to Mr. Pushbutton. I have to admit this sounds over my head, but a mans gotta do?.

Now for the pencil lead sized flow of trany fluid. This comes down from a screw head in a small plate on the bottom of the converter cover. I am told this might be a blown front gasket. This will be a joyous surprise I have yet to enjoy!

I have a friend that will tow the car up to his building ( approx 30 miles). There we will put her on the lift to jack the trany to the side for the ?Actuator-ectomy?!

While the car is in the air, I'll try to clean as much as possible under there. I did find that the trany pan was put on with what looks like black jelly that is oosing down the sides. So I'll drain and drop that and at the very least put on a new gasket. I'll have to run new lines to the radiator but that is not a scary as putting a jack between the frame and the drive train.

I will have to remove the fan blades and I am going to put on new belts. From the look of the hatchet job that was done on the wiring, I guess that I should plan on re-wiring what I can get to.

Might as well take the chance to drain and drop the oil pan to check on the oil pump. I did score a dual action fuel pump from the Hudson version of this engine.

Hey guys, if I use this pump and attach the vacuum lines to it, what do I have to do in respect to the Oil pump? Remember I am a non-mechanic so be gentle! Optimum would be to put in the pump conversion to Olds pump and full flow (see Panther Project). Any suggestions on a possible Dry Sump?
Any ideas on fund raising to pay for some of this crap?

Well, One step at a time!

Thanks for coming back with an update.

I am relieved to hear that your coolant and ATF are merely co-mingling on the floor and not in the tranny cooler.

Be advised that I met up with MrPushbutton at the Perrysburg meet last weekend, and after talking with him at great length, I can say that anyone who lacks the confidence/patience to attempt to service the push-button trans control system need look no further than MrPushbutton. Know that he speaks fluent "pushbutton-ese" - a series of clicks representing the proper movement of the actuator in response to the specific button pushed.

The steady stream of fluid coming from one of the bolts that secure the inspection cover for the converter could mean a failed front pump seal, which is what I expreience on the trip home with my first Patrician. Fluid comes out almost as fast as you can pour it in. It required removal of the trans to replace that seal. In my case (with evidence of previous substandard repairs made by the previous owner), the trans probably should have been overhauled, but the only pump seal was replaced, and I never had another problem with massive fluid loss - though with only ocassional use - since.

I have one of the Melling HV Olds pumps and adapter kits, but because I have not yet installed it, let's hear from others who have.