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Topic: Type of engine oil

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JWL

Re: Type of engine oil

#21

Home away from home

Joe,

I have taken off a few straight-eight and -six oil pans and it is a relatively easy job. I use a universal socket or wobble socket to get to the front cap screws that are not accessible through the holes in the cross member. Actually, I use a speed handle and a wobble socket for all the pan screws. You will also need to drop the lower bell housing. This too is a simple enough job. In addition, you will need to drop the steering linkage. This is easy, just unfasten the idler arm bracket from the R.H. side frame rail and pull the linkage down out of the way. And, as O_D says you may need to rotate the engine to get the front throws of the crankshaft out of the way. A good cleaning of the pan and the oil pump screen and you will be ready to go for a long time.

CAUTION: BE SURE TO HAVE THE CAR JACKED UP PROPERLY WITH GOOD JACK STANDS SUPPORTING THE CAR. I CANNOT EMPHASIZE THIS ENOUGH. BE CAREFUL!!!

(o[]o)

Posted on: 2012/3/12 10:57

We move toward
And make happen
What occupies our mind... (W. Scherer)

Tim Cole

Re: Type of engine oil

#22

Home away from home

Hey Joe:

Here is a little tip for dealing with the worn motor mount:

Unbolt the front motor supports at the frame (two bolts).

Next jack the motor up using a piece of plywood under the oil pan.

Put two one in thick drilled pieces of wood under the support using the bolts as locator pins.

Set the motor down.

Posted on: 2012/3/12 16:31

Joseph Earl

Re: Type of engine oil

#23

Home away from home

Quote:

JW wrote:
Joe,

I have taken off a few straight-eight and -six oil pans and it is a relatively easy job. I use a universal socket or wobble socket to get to the front cap screws that are not accessible through the holes in the cross member. Actually, I use a speed handle and a wobble socket for all the pan screws. You will also need to drop the lower bell housing. This too is a simple enough job. In addition, you will need to drop the steering linkage. This is easy, just unfasten the idler arm bracket from the R.H. side frame rail and pull the linkage down out of the way. And, as O_D says you may need to rotate the engine to get the front throws of the crankshaft out of the way. A good cleaning of the pan and the oil pump screen and you will be ready to go for a long time.

CAUTION: BE SURE TO HAVE THE CAR JACKED UP PROPERLY WITH GOOD JACK STANDS SUPPORTING THE CAR. I CANNOT EMPHASIZE THIS ENOUGH. BE CAREFUL!!!

(o[]o)

Well, I'm finally at that point where I'm ready to pull the pan. I had to replace the front motor mount rubbers, and I finally got underneath the car tonight and started scraping crud and removing bolts. Started out with a speed handle, and then decided it was easier to just use my 3/8" air wrench to zip the bolts off.

All are off now except for the rear and two on the front under the crossmember. I had to revisit this post to see what happens in the rear, and I saw JW's post about he lower bell housing. I'm assuming that the ones in the rear are underneath the bell housing? JW, do you know how many bolts hold the bell housing on? I'm scraping away down there trying to locate just where they are.

Thanks,

Posted on: 2012/4/2 22:22

Joey

(?=#=?)

"If chrome got me home, I'd for sure still be stuck somewhere."

[url=http://pac

JWL

Re: Type of engine oil

#24

Home away from home

Joey,

Not sure exactly how many, but probably at least six. Just keep scraping and cleaning and you will find them all.

(o[]o)

Posted on: 2012/4/3 10:44

We move toward
And make happen
What occupies our mind... (W. Scherer)

BigKev

Re: Type of engine oil

#25

Webmaster

I believe there are six as well. It either four on the bottom and two on the side, or vice-versa if I remember correctly. You may need to whack it with a rubber mallet to have it break free if it doesn't come loose on it's own after all the bolts have been removed.

Posted on: 2012/4/3 10:51

-BigKev

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